[RE-wrenches] Subject: Re: Sunny Island Battery Disconnects

Jason jason at westcoastsustainables.com
Sat Feb 8 09:49:59 PST 2014


William

I prefer to use the Flexware for my Sunny Island Installs the wiring
configuration is very similar to that of the vfx series inverters and wires
up very similar.

On the three inverter SI system is this a hybrid with generator? If so how
did they configure the DigIn for monitoring between gen and grid mode?

If you want to see a pic I can send you one

Jason

-----Original Message-----
From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
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Sent: Saturday, February 8, 2014 7:37 AM
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Subject: RE-wrenches Digest, Vol 7, Issue 56

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: (RE-wrenches) Solar Repair Puzzle (John Powell)
   2. Re: DC Fusing/Breakers for Battery Circuits (August Goers)
   3. Sunny Island Battery Disconnects (william at millersolar.com)
   4. Re: Sunny Island Battery Disconnects (Ray Walters)
   5. Re: Sunny Island Battery Disconnects (August Goers)
   6. Re: Sunny Island Battery Disconnects (Brian Teitelbaum)
   7. Re: Sunny Island Battery Disconnects (wirewiz at gmail.com)
   8. Charging a HUP (bruce at willpowerelect.com)
   9. Re: Sunny Island Battery Disconnects (dan at foxfire-energy.com)
  10. Re: Sunny Island Battery Disconnects (Richard L Ratico)
  11. Re: Sunny Island Battery Disconnects (Allan Sindelar)
  12. Solaredge inverters w/ backup generator (Kirk Herander)
  13. Re: Tigo (dan at foxfire-energy.com)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2014 15:57:29 -0800
From: John Powell <abe at solforce.com>
To: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] (RE-wrenches) Solar Repair Puzzle
Message-ID: <B4447D77-4810-4D52-8140-823961E05375 at solforce.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252"

Hello Wrenches,

Here is a solar repair puzzle.

I am debugging a faulty and now partially non-functional grid-tie job in
Southern California installed by another (non-cooperative) contractor.  One
of two inverter's has failed (2 months post warranty) and I am trying to
find a solution for the homeowner that doesn't involve a complete system
re-install and meter main panel upgrade.  Here are the repair issues:

#1)  ARRAY DESIGN FLAW:  There are 2 inverters with single MPPTs that each
serve arrays with panels facing in two directions (90 degrees azimuth apart)
in the same single source circuit string.   Details:  30 KC130GT panels
facing East.  18 KC130GT Panels facing South.  Each 3000 watt inverter has 1
string of 24 Panels?mixed and matched.  (and here's the kicker---10 separate
physical sub-arrays?really)  (Note:  module and array wiring not "PV" rated)

#2)  INVERTER FAILURE.  One of the two inverters (A piece of crap Xantrex
GT3.0 that was field-serviced for the bad capacitor in 2011) is kaput.

#3)  GROUND FAULTS:  Wet weather ground faulting on PV source circuit for
failed 3K inverter (fuses blown 3 times.)  No significant voltage to ground
when dry.   Don't yet have a wet wire voltage reading to find fault.

#4)  CODE VIOLATIONS.  

A)  Meter Main Buss Overload.  100 amp rated panel.  100 amp MCB.  40 amp
solar breaker.  Even better?a famously flammable Zinsco buss and breakers.
28.4 amps max combined continuous inverter current.  (not likely due to the
different azimuths of the array, but?you know?way over NEC 690.64.B.2).

B)  Inadequate GEC?undersized and improperly spliced all over the place.

Thus:  Is this poor old lady just hosed?   Any clever ideas to save her from
a massive repair and meter main upgrade?  She is looking at 10k+ fix.
Second story steep roof? I'm stumped.  


Best regards,

Abe
--
J. Abraham Powell
President
Solforce Systems, Inc.
224-G South Milpas Street
Santa Barbara, CA 93103
e-mail:  abe at solforce.com




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Message: 2
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2014 16:36:13 -0800
From: August Goers <august at luminalt.com>
To: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] DC Fusing/Breakers for Battery Circuits
Message-ID: <ef020fdbfe6016068b0cb2079059321e at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi All,



Correction: Another Wrench member contacted me off-list and noticed that we
have a class RK5 in one photo and a T in the other photo. This opens up the
question of whether one or both are correct or incorrect. I think both are
rated for 20k AIC for DC voltage but I'll have to look through my order
records to be certain. The R is slow acting and the T is fast acting.



Best,



August



*From:* August Goers [mailto:august at luminalt.com]
*Sent:* Friday, February 07, 2014 3:32 PM
*To:* 'RE-wrenches'
*Subject:* RE: [RE-wrenches] DC Fusing/Breakers for Battery Circuits



Hi Dan,



I've been wondering the same think. We've been fusing with a class T in the
battery box and grounding the negative side of the batteries. See attached
pics. Do you feel that the fuses should be outside of the battery box?



Best,



August



Luminalt Energy



*From:* re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org [
mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org<re-wrenches-bounces at lists.r
e-wrenches.org>]
*On Behalf Of *Dan Fink
*Sent:* Friday, February 07, 2014 9:27 AM
*To:* RE-wrenches
*Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] DC Fusing/Breakers for Battery Circuits



Does anyone have any elegant solutions to this? It's really time consuming
and ugly to run big parallel battery string wires *out* of the battery
enclosure to class T fuses, then back into the battery box. It looks very
ugly and DIY, and in conduit adds a few hundred to the install cost just
for labor. The Class T fuses and blocks themselves are not particularly
expensive.

I have been recommending parallel fusing on battery banks of 2x8 L16s and
over now, after a nearly tragic incident with a bad cell that shorted. The
(perfectly legal) wooden battery box made the fire much worse. A pet peeve
of mine.




Dan Fink,
Executive Director;
Otherpower
Buckville Energy Consulting
Buckville Publications LLC
NABCEP / IREC accredited Continuing Education Providers
970.672.4342
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Message: 3
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2014 17:29:04 -0800
From: <william at millersolar.com>
To: "'RE-wrenches'" <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Sunny Island Battery Disconnects
Message-ID: <002401cf246d$27884170$7698c450$@millersolar.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Friends:

 

I am reworking an installation with 3 Sunny Island inverters.  The battery
leads have no disconnecting means or OCP.  I have been looking for sensible
hardware to provide this and I have found some options.  I am interested in
any input on these or ideas I have not discovered.

 

1.       SMA BATFUSE.  I am having trouble deciding which one is right for a
3 SI install. 

a.       The B.003 appears to have fuse positions for the positive and the
negative leads.  I am fairly darn certain I don't want fuses in the negative
leads of a negative bonded system, and although this is my first SI install,
I am pretty sure this is negative bonded.  Am I missing something here?  

b.      The B.001 has only positions for two fuses as far as I can see from
the manual.

c.       So it looks like neither will work for me.  Does anyone have any
experience and/or wisdom here?

2.       Midnite Solar E-panels:

a.       The regular panel has DC and AC components.  I want to control the
AC elsewhere so I could order three slave units.  The Midnite unit mounts
right under the inverter but I would prefer to have the OCP closer to the
batteries.

3.       Outback:

a.       We could purchase an Outback FX1000 and install three breakers in
it.

4.       Breaker Size:

a.       I have started to read the manual but I have yet to find out what
size breaker fuse is recommended.  Have I just not found it yet?

b.      Also, I have not found a specification for battery cable size.  Am I
blind?

 

Thanks in advance.  I really appreciate the help I receive here.  I try to
give as well as receive.

 

William

 

 

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Message: 4
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2014 18:55:18 -0700
From: Ray Walters <ray at solarray.com>
To: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Sunny Island Battery Disconnects
Message-ID: <52F58E86.9010307 at solarray.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"

I'm working on something similar.  I think the Flex 1000 is the only 
reasonable choice that can handle more than 2 of the large format DC 
breakers.  Midnite has the more expensive MNBCB -1000 Battery Combiner 
box,  but there just isn't enough documentation to figure out what it 
can and can't do.

R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760

On 2/7/2014 6:29 PM, william at millersolar.com wrote:
>
> Friends:
>
> I am reworking an installation with 3 Sunny Island inverters.  The 
> battery leads have no disconnecting means or OCP.  I have been looking 
> for sensible hardware to provide this and I have found some options.  
> I am interested in any input on these or ideas I have not discovered.
>
> 1.SMA BATFUSE.  I am having trouble deciding which one is right for a 
> 3 SI install.
>
> a.The B.003 appears to have fuse positions for the positive and the 
> negative leads.  I am fairly darn certain I don't want fuses in the 
> negative leads of a negative bonded system, and although this is my 
> first SI install, I am pretty sure this is negative bonded.  Am I 
> missing something here?
>
> b.The B.001 has only positions for two fuses as far as I can see from 
> the manual.
>
> c.So it looks like neither will work for me.  Does anyone have any 
> experience and/or wisdom here?
>
> 2.Midnite Solar E-panels:
>
> a.The regular panel has DC and AC components.  I want to control the 
> AC elsewhere so I could order three slave units.  The Midnite unit 
> mounts right under the inverter but I would prefer to have the OCP 
> closer to the batteries.
>
> 3.Outback:
>
> a.We could purchase an Outback FX1000 and install three breakers in it.
>
> 4.Breaker Size:
>
> a.I have started to read the manual but I have yet to find out what 
> size breaker fuse is recommended.  Have I just not found it yet?
>
> b.Also, I have not found a specification for battery cable size.  Am I 
> blind?
>
> Thanks in advance.  I really appreciate the help I receive here.  I 
> try to give as well as receive.
>
> William
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> List sponsored by Home Power magazine
>
> List Address: RE-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org
>
> Change email address & settings:
> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org
>
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http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org
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Message: 5
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2014 18:02:00 -0800
From: August Goers <august at luminalt.com>
To: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Sunny Island Battery Disconnects
Message-ID: <3b8f356a754a66277008b578a68fd3d3 at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi William,



You might try reaching out to Roy Dyngen of SMA - he is a good contact for
these types of general questions. Email me off list if you would like his
contact info.



Is the SMA BATFUSE available in the US? Anyway, SMA has always recommended
connecting the negative of the batteries to ground when I called their tech
support line. As always, you would not fuse a grounded conductor so the
negatives wouldn't be fused. We've been using fuse blocks and fuses to fuse
our DC lines per one of my recent posts. It is certainly not the cleanest
way to provide over current protection but gets the job done and I think is
perfectly adequate. I typically fuse each string of batteries with a 175 A
fuse and use 2/0 wire. I think 3/0 is the largest that the terminal blocks
in the Sunny Island can handle -buried in the manual section 6.2.2 you'll
find that. A 175 A fuse allows for 6720 Watts of power (175 A x 48 v /
1.25) on the DC side or 8400 Watts before the fuse will blow and it
protects the 2/0. You will want to fuse each string of batteries before
combining them and running to the Sunny Islands.



I'll check out the products you've listed below and consider using them for
our next project as well.



Best,



August



*From:* re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org [mailto:
re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] *On Behalf Of *
william at millersolar.com
*Sent:* Friday, February 07, 2014 5:29 PM
*To:* 'RE-wrenches'
*Subject:* [RE-wrenches] Sunny Island Battery Disconnects



Friends:



I am reworking an installation with 3 Sunny Island inverters.  The battery
leads have no disconnecting means or OCP.  I have been looking for sensible
hardware to provide this and I have found some options.  I am interested in
any input on these or ideas I have not discovered.



1.       SMA BATFUSE.  I am having trouble deciding which one is right for
a 3 SI install.

a.       The B.003 appears to have fuse positions for the positive and the
negative leads.  I am fairly darn certain I don't want fuses in the
negative leads of a negative bonded system, and although this is my first
SI install, I am pretty sure this is negative bonded.  Am I missing
something here?

b.      The B.001 has only positions for two fuses as far as I can see from
the manual.

c.       So it looks like neither will work for me.  Does anyone have any
experience and/or wisdom here?

2.       Midnite Solar E-panels:

a.       The regular panel has DC and AC components.  I want to control the
AC elsewhere so I could order three slave units.  The Midnite unit mounts
right under the inverter but I would prefer to have the OCP closer to the
batteries.

3.       Outback:

a.       We could purchase an Outback FX1000 and install three breakers in
it.

4.       Breaker Size:

a.       I have started to read the manual but I have yet to find out what
size breaker fuse is recommended.  Have I just not found it yet?

b.      Also, I have not found a specification for battery cable size.  Am
I blind?



Thanks in advance.  I really appreciate the help I receive here.  I try to
give as well as receive.



William
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Message: 6
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2014 18:28:18 -0800
From: Brian Teitelbaum <bteitelbaum at aeesolar.com>
To: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Sunny Island Battery Disconnects
Message-ID:
	
<8961DF9D3453CF41A4A5B6E6BECA4C77249468AC05 at VS-SJEXCH01.recsolar.local>
	
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

William,

Are those the older Sunny Island 4.2 or 5kW units, or the newer 4.5 or 6kW
units?

Is this single-phase or three phase?

The SMA BATFUSE would work, but it is not available in the US. It's not Code
compliant nor UL Listed.

You could use the OutBack FW1000-DC, but you are going to have a little fun
doing the DC cabling and conduit. The older Islands had dual 1/0 battery
terminals. The newer ones have a single 3/0 terminal. Unfortunately, those
sizes are hard to find in proper flexible battery/inverter cable, mostly
because it doesn't sell in enough volume for distributors to carry. It also
doesn't properly match available DC breaker sizes, like 4/0 and 2/0 cable
does.

SMA worked directly with MidNite Solar to develop the MidNite E-Panel system
for the Sunny Islands. It's what I would recommend using. For one thing,
they have dealt with the DC cable and fusing size issues (and, no, you are
not blind). You can run 2/0 (4.2 or 4.5kW units), or 4/0 (5 and 6kW units)
to the E-Panels

However, I don't know offhand if they work with the older Islands. If you
are dealing with the older units, you should contact them to confirm that
they will fit.

If it's three-phase at 208 VAC, I also recommend that you use one of the
MidNite three-phase Master units (MNE250SMA-3PH-Master) and two slaves. It
has a three-phase bypass switch and color-coded bus bars for a full
three-phase system. There isn't a whole lot in there that you won't likely
use. The AC output on the bypass will just act as an AC main breaker. You
can then run that to an external load center.

Now, the distance from the battery bank issue is new. These systems have
been installed for a couple of decades now with up to 12 feet between the
battery and the first disconnect, breaker, or fuse. Of course, that doesn't
make it right, or compliant with the 2014 Code. The industry really needs to
come up with a good solution here. The Wrenches thread over the last few
days about placing fuses on or near batteries shows that an easy solution is
not available (or not known), at least not for flooded batteries.

Brian Teitelbaum
AEE Solar

From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of
william at millersolar.com
Sent: Friday, February 07, 2014 5:29 PM
To: 'RE-wrenches'
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Sunny Island Battery Disconnects

Friends:

I am reworking an installation with 3 Sunny Island inverters.  The battery
leads have no disconnecting means or OCP.  I have been looking for sensible
hardware to provide this and I have found some options.  I am interested in
any input on these or ideas I have not discovered.


1.       SMA BATFUSE.  I am having trouble deciding which one is right for a
3 SI install.

a.       The B.003 appears to have fuse positions for the positive and the
negative leads.  I am fairly darn certain I don't want fuses in the negative
leads of a negative bonded system, and although this is my first SI install,
I am pretty sure this is negative bonded.  Am I missing something here?

b.      The B.001 has only positions for two fuses as far as I can see from
the manual.

c.       So it looks like neither will work for me.  Does anyone have any
experience and/or wisdom here?

2.       Midnite Solar E-panels:

a.       The regular panel has DC and AC components.  I want to control the
AC elsewhere so I could order three slave units.  The Midnite unit mounts
right under the inverter but I would prefer to have the OCP closer to the
batteries.

3.       Outback:

a.       We could purchase an Outback FX1000 and install three breakers in
it.

4.       Breaker Size:

a.       I have started to read the manual but I have yet to find out what
size breaker fuse is recommended.  Have I just not found it yet?

b.      Also, I have not found a specification for battery cable size.  Am I
blind?

Thanks in advance.  I really appreciate the help I receive here.  I try to
give as well as receive.

William


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Message: 7
Date: Fri, 7 Feb 2014 21:17:34 -0500
From: wirewiz at gmail.com
To: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Sunny Island Battery Disconnects
Message-ID:
	<CAFPWnN6nGBg5Nzou+a9YQZk_BdrNNdT6O9LnwWSmwWx=6qbCgQ at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Take a look at Blue Sea

www.bluesea.com

Larry
On Feb 7, 2014 8:30 PM, <william at millersolar.com> wrote:

> Friends:
>
>
>
> I am reworking an installation with 3 Sunny Island inverters.  The battery
> leads have no disconnecting means or OCP.  I have been looking for
sensible
> hardware to provide this and I have found some options.  I am interested
in
> any input on these or ideas I have not discovered.
>
>
>
> 1.       SMA BATFUSE.  I am having trouble deciding which one is right
> for a 3 SI install.
>
> a.       The B.003 appears to have fuse positions for the positive and
> the negative leads.  I am fairly darn certain I don't want fuses in the
> negative leads of a negative bonded system, and although this is my first
> SI install, I am pretty sure this is negative bonded.  Am I missing
> something here?
>
> b.      The B.001 has only positions for two fuses as far as I can see
> from the manual.
>
> c.       So it looks like neither will work for me.  Does anyone have any
> experience and/or wisdom here?
>
> 2.       Midnite Solar E-panels:
>
> a.       The regular panel has DC and AC components.  I want to control
> the AC elsewhere so I could order three slave units.  The Midnite unit
> mounts right under the inverter but I would prefer to have the OCP closer
> to the batteries.
>
> 3.       Outback:
>
> a.       We could purchase an Outback FX1000 and install three breakers
> in it.
>
> 4.       Breaker Size:
>
> a.       I have started to read the manual but I have yet to find out
> what size breaker fuse is recommended.  Have I just not found it yet?
>
> b.      Also, I have not found a specification for battery cable size.
> Am I blind?
>
>
>
> Thanks in advance.  I really appreciate the help I receive here.  I try to
> give as well as receive.
>
>
>
> William
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> List sponsored by Home Power magazine
>
> List Address: RE-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org
>
> Change email address & settings:
> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org
>
> List-Archive:
> http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org
>
> List rules & etiquette:
> www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm
>
> Check out participant bios:
> www.members.re-wrenches.org
>
>
>
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Message: 8
Date: Fri, 07 Feb 2014 23:46:09 -0700
From: <bruce at willpowerelect.com>
To: re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Charging a HUP
Message-ID:
	
<20140207234609.4bb9be2b2fe7dbe5419661c7f5dbcaaf.aeb4511416.wbe at email02.secu
reserver.net>
	
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Message: 9
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 2014 06:00:27 -0700
From: <dan at foxfire-energy.com>
To: "RE-wrenches" <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Sunny Island Battery Disconnects
Message-ID:
	
<20140208060027.720a661d8db719b1f2ad39509c9edaa3.c4c5aa5d87.wbe at email14.secu
reserver.net>
	
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Message: 10
Date: 08 Feb 2014 08:59:58 -0500
From: Richard.L.Ratico at VALLEY.NET (Richard L Ratico)
To: re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Sunny Island Battery Disconnects
Message-ID: <167614464 at retriever.VALLEY.NET>
Content-Type: text/plain

Ray,
Way back in 2002, you mentioned using Boltswitch products for battery string
fusing
immediately outside the battery box. Might one of these be a partial
solution
for William?

Dick Ratico
Solarwind Electric


--- You wrote:
I'm working on something similar.  I think the Flex 1000 is the only 
reasonable choice that can handle more than 2 of the large format DC 
breakers.  Midnite has the more expensive MNBCB -1000 Battery Combiner 
box,  but there just isn't enough documentation to figure out what it 
can and can't do.

R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760

On 2/7/2014 6:29 PM, william at millersolar.com wrote:
>
> Friends:
>
> I am reworking an installation with 3 Sunny Island inverters.  The 
> battery leads have no disconnecting means or OCP.  I have been looking 
> for sensible hardware to provide this and I have found some options.  
> I am interested in any input on these or ideas I have not discovered.
>
> 1.SMA BATFUSE.  I am having trouble deciding which one is right for a 
> 3 SI install.
>
> a.The B.003 appears to have fuse positions for the positive and the 
> negative leads.  I am fairly darn certain I don't want fuses in the 
> negative leads of a negative bonded system, and although this is my 
> first SI install, I am pretty sure this is negative bonded.  Am I 
> missing something here?
>
> b.The B.001 has only positions for two fuses as far as I can see from 
> the manual.
>
> c.So it looks like neither will work for me.  Does anyone have any 
> experience and/or wisdom here?
>
> 2.Midnite Solar E-panels:
>
> a.The regular panel has DC and AC components.  I want to control the 
> AC elsewhere so I could order three slave units.  The Midnite unit 
> mounts right under the inverter but I would prefer to have the OCP 
> closer to the batteries.
>
> 3.Outback:
>
> a.We could purchase an Outback FX1000 and install three breakers in it.
>
> 4.Breaker Size:
>
> a.I have started to read the manual but I have yet to find out what 
> size breaker fuse is recommended.  Have I just not found it yet?
>
> b.Also, I have not found a specification for battery cable size.  Am I 
> blind?
>
> Thanks in advance.  I really appreciate the help I receive here.  I 
> try to give as well as receive.
>
> William
>
--- end of quote ---


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Message: 11
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 2014 08:15:07 -0700
From: Allan Sindelar <allan at positiveenergysolar.com>
To: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Sunny Island Battery Disconnects
Message-ID: <52F649FB.9010606 at positiveenergysolar.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

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Message: 12
Date: Sat, 8 Feb 2014 10:32:03 -0500
From: "Kirk Herander" <kirk at vtsolar.com>
To: "RE-wrenches" <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Solaredge inverters w/ backup generator
Message-ID: <004901cf24e2$eb1626a0$c14273e0$@vtsolar.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hello,

 

I recently posed the question to Solaredge tech support, wondering if their
inverter, in this case a 20kw 480 3-phase, would have any issues if it were
connected to an AC panel backed up by a generator. They told me no problem,
for the inverter's anti-islanding will work if it sees the "generator
frequency" and therefore will not try to push PV power to the panel. But
isn't 60 hz, 60hz regardless of origin? There's got to be more to it than
that. I question this because I asked the same to SMA several years ago and
they were hard-set against connecting Sunnyboys to a panel with generator
backup, so I always would establish the point of interconnection upstream of
the generator feed. Comments? Thanks.

 

Kirk Herander

VT Solar, LLC

dba Vermont Solar Engineering

NABCEPTM Certified Inaugural Certificant

NYSERDA-eligible Installer

VT RE Incentive Program Partner

802.863.1202

 

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Message: 13
Date: Sat, 08 Feb 2014 08:36:14 -0700
From: <dan at foxfire-energy.com>
To: "RE-wrenches" <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Tigo
Message-ID:
	
<20140208083614.720a661d8db719b1f2ad39509c9edaa3.c6544e31b4.wbe at email14.secu
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