[RE-wrenches] Fix the Fluorescents: What about LED tubes for late 2012?

[William Dorsett]

In the early days, LED's were rated by the candela and so everything was
apples and oranges. Long time ago, I used an LED to allow boats to navigate
into a narrow passage by lining it up with a second one a distance away. You
didn't have to read a map by it, just see it. As you said Alan, with
Christmas lights and candles you are only looking for a pretty spot of light
without really thinking of lumens. At least now LED's are also rated in
lumens. And it is still very worth the trouble checking lumens/watt. I was
in Home Despot not long ago, comparing LED's with linear fluorescents and
none of the LED's compared well.

 

Bill Dorsett

Sunwrights

Manhattan, KS

 

From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Mick Abraham
Sent: Wednesday, December 05, 2012 3:54 PM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Fix the Fluorescents: What about LED tubes for late
2012?

 

Hi, Knuckle-Busters~

It's lighting retrofit time and also time for me to review "what I thought I
knew" about various lighting technologies. 

+++++++++++++++++++++++++

Round one of the conversion involves >>well known RV brand<< T8 tubular
fluorescent fixtures (3' long single tube). These have 24vDC ballasts which
(in various brands) have failed way too often...and the tubes also are
failing too soon. 

I've mostly decided to convert the circuits to good ol' American AC instead
of DC, then I gotta select ballasts (to stay fluor) or convert to LED. Some
of the List members handle lighting retrofits for better energy efficiency,
etc. so I need a refresher course.

+++++++++++++++++++++++

For AC ballasts, I'm focusing on the "Programmed Start" type which seem less
destructive to the tubes when cycled on and off frequently. I could drive
three tubes with one ballast but then a single bulb failure sends the whole
group to black since the tubes connect in series. 

Is there a way to test a fluorescent tube using a volt-ohmmeter or other
non-exotic method? The cost benefit of sharing a ballast among three
fixtures goes smaller if it's a hassle at lamp replacement time. A failed
ballast would be tricky to spot with three lamps adding more variables.  

+++++++++++++++++++++++++

I see there are now T8 tubular LED lamps which of course deliver more lumens
per watt and of course they are still costly. With no ballast to buy, if I
compared devoting a $25 ballast to each fixture against converting to a $50
LED tube, "it's only double the cost" to go LED.

Is LED now ready for prime time? I got on that band wagon too early because
the "white light" units were moonlight blue, they seemed dimmer than a
flashlight, color rendition was poor, and worst of all:

My early LED purchases stopped working properly >>as should not be the case
if LED is done right.<< Admittedly, my early LED buys were--don't get me
started--designed for DC and I think the battery voltage fluctuation may
play havoc with LED and also with the DC fluorescent ballasts. 

Final question: how could I be sure that new LED lights won't "roach out" in
a few years? My untrained eye has never helped me avoid crummy tech before,
so I guess it comes down to identifying one (or more) major manufacturer,
maybe with a long warranty and a good likelihood of staying in business. 

My friends and I must stop buying junk that's going to break--even if it is
all hyped up about being the "New Latest Environmentally Correct Energy
Saver". Those >>well known RV brand<< fluorescents are a case in point to
say nothing of round two: DC driven CFL's!

Thanks & Jolliness,

Mick Abraham, Proprietor
www.abrahamsolar.com

Voice: 970-731-4675

 

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