[RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof

Tue Jul 3 12:24:41 PDT 2012

I agree. I would drill a pilot for anything bigger than #12. 5/16" Lags get
a 1/8" pilot minimum.

Unfortunately, common 1/8" bits are usually pretty short and break off
easily.

Jason Szumlanski
Fafco Solar

On Tue, Jul 3, 2012 at 9:35 AM, Chris Mason <cometenergysystems at gmail.com>wrote:

> I don't believe you are correct here. The body of the lag does not do
> anything for the holding power, it is the threads that prevent pullout. If
> you drive a 5/16 lag into a 3 x 8 without a pilot hole, you will be putting
> a lot of pressure into the wood to split it. It might not split every time,
> it might not split right then, but you are definitely introducing a lot of
> stress for no good reason. On any of these techniques for mounting, I want
> to follow the manufacturers recommendations, otherwise how can you be sure
> if you are right. Without a testing lab, you have no way to know.
> I think mounting PV systems IS a science project, it takes care and
> thought to do it right. We do a lot of concrete roof installations in
> hurricane areas, and mounting keeps me up at night.
>
>
>  On Sun, Jul 1, 2012 at 9:13 PM, <mark at hurshtown.com> wrote:
>
>> In my 20 year experience of lagging down L feet on shingle roofs in
>> Indiana with a good dollop of silicone caulk under the foot, I've never had
>> an issue.  No pre-drilling, just drive the lag home.  Drilling a hole first
>> is not necessary, and reduces holding strength.  No reason to make a
>> science project out of it and increase cost and labor.
>>
>> Mark
>>
>>  -------- Original Message --------
>> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
>> From: Drake <drake.chamberlin at redwoodalliance.org>
>> Date: Fri, June 29, 2012 3:09 pm
>> To: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
>>
>> Hi Jay,
>>
>> There is no room for flashings.  The L feet will go very close to the
>> skylights and the flashing would hit the edge of them.   Plus there is an
>> existing array that was done by another installer that is done with L feet
>> only.  The new array would be higher.
>>
>>
>> And given that we have really good off the shelf approved flashed feet,
>> why would you use anything else?
>>
>> My 2 cents,
>>
>> Jay
>>
>> peltz power
>>
>>
>> On Jun 29, 2012, at 5:16 AM, Glenn Burt wrote:
>>
>> We have used a variety of sealants over the years, and determined simple
>> Henry roofing cement is the best product for use on comp roofing.
>>
>> We also used to bend our own L-foot flashing, which we cut from standard
>> Al coil stock (before all the manufactured options were available). This
>> might be a good option for you in this case.
>>
>>
>>
>> Glenn
>>
>> *From:* re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org [
>> mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org<re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org>]
>> *On Behalf Of *Drake
>> *Sent:* Thursday, June 28, 2012 6:40 PM
>> *To:* RE-wrenches
>> *Subject:* [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
>>
>> I'm quoting a job that has an existing array with L feet bolted down to a
>> shingle roof with no flashings.  I want to match the height of the existing
>> array.  Also some modules are being worked in around skylights where it is
>> unlikely that room would be available for flashings to center over rafters.
>>
>> I've always used flashings.  Would it be completely crazy to follow suit
>> of the existing array and bolt L feet straight to the shingle roof with
>> good roof sealant?  If so, how would you seal it?
>>
>> **
>> Drake Chamberlin**        **
>> ATHENS ELECTRIC LLC
>> OH License 44810**        **
>> CO license 3773
>> NABCEP Certified PV
>>  ------------------------------
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>
>
> --
> Chris Mason
> President, Comet Systems Ltd
> www.cometenergysystems.com
>  Cell: 264.235.5670
> Skype: netconcepts
>
>
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