[RE-wrenches] Foam Insulation Install

Glenn Burt glenn.burt at glbcc.com
Mon Jul 19 07:50:14 PDT 2010 

Can you see where the rafter tails were nailed at the soffit?
How is the ridge constructed? A vent you could lift to see the ridge end of
the rafters?

Good Luck!
-Glenn Burt

-----Original Message-----
From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
[mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of
holtek at sbcglobal.net
Sent: Monday, July 19, 2010 9:59 AM
To: RE-wrenches
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Foam Insulation Install

For residential install with the spray foam insulation

Underside of deck has 12"+ of foam.....no way to accurately locate rafter 
there.....hammer and ear also out of the question...........don't think any 
of the stud finders will work....been told that peeling back shingles to 
locate rafter is only accurate way.......would like to avoid that if 
possible..........any suggestions?

Holt E. Kelly
Holtek Fireplace & Solar Products
500 Jewell Dr.
Waco TX. 76712
254-751-9111
www.holteksolar.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ken Schaal" <ken at commonwealthsolar.com>
To: "RE-wrenches" <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 8:25 PM
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Slate roof strategies


> During the 80's we installed several SHW jobs on slate, one with 8 - 4x10 
> collectors. It continues to be leak free.
> The key thing to remember is that it is NOT the slate that keeps the water

> out, it is the tar paper underneath the slate. Here in Va. the paper is 
> good for about 100 years before it dries out and deteriorates to the point

> where it can break up from wind storms. Then any wind driven rain can lead

> to leaks.
> Of course , there are differing grades of tar paper-----------
>
> For mounts to be water tight, the typical technique is to remove a slate 
> with a slaters tool to remove the 2 nails holding the slate. Then slide a 
> sheet of copper under
> the tar paper shingle fashion--also a good time to check the tar paper to 
> see what condition it is in-- so that there is a durable material to seal 
> to.Then L feet can be installed with black silicone in the lag hole and 
> under the foot, oozing out all around, especially on the uphill side, and 
> smooth over to seal the top edge. Snug the lag but do not tighten 
> excessively ! We want to maintain a silicone pad.
> For those that need the security of a boot, it can be installed in 
> conjunction with the copper flashing. A decorative piece of slate can even

> be installed by cutting a strip or 2 of copper strap that is fastened 
> under the boot, or inserted into or under the main flashing, nailed with a

> copper nail and some silicone, extending below the bottom of the slate, 
> and then bent up and over the bottom of the slate, making a durable hook. 
> Remember, all the slate does is look good and protect the tar paper from 
> UV rays.
>
> Anytime a plumbing boot is installed, it is best if its inserted into or 
> under the roofing material, not just caulked on top of the roofing.
>
> I wouldn't use the' hole saw thru the slate'  ------------
>
> Ken Schaal
> CommonWealth Solar   ----slate roof territory
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mick Abraham" <mick at abrahamsolar.com>
> To: "RE-wrenches" <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
> Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 4:35 PM
> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Slate roof strategies
>
>
> Hi, Drake~ Consider this item:
>
> http://www.sunslates.net/
>
> These are sized to match Eternit brand slates. I know very little else
> about this...but if you have a different size of slates... thinking...
> somebody else is out there with other sizes.
>
> OpenEnergy is a brand you might do well to search out, and friend
> Brian on this list with Eagle Roofing may have other suggestions.
>
> The "holesaw through the slate" idea sounds to me like it would
> ultimately rely on a caulked seal between the Oatey flashing and the
> slate upon which it rests. That sounds risky for what is probably a
> high end roof with a high end structure beneath.
>
> Jolliness,
>
> Mick Abraham, Proprietor
> www.abrahamsolar.com
>
> Voice: 970-731-4675
>
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 18, 2010 at 2:19 PM, Drake Chamberlin
> <drake.chamberlin at redwoodalliance.org> wrote:
>> Hi Wrenches,
>>
>> There was a strategy mentioned for slate roofs recently. Removing the 
>> slate
>> under the array area and replacing with decking and shingles would 
>> certainly
>> work. That might be the best solution.
>>
>> There are two potential problems however.
>>
>> It would cost a fair amount to replace that portion of the roof
>> My slate roof guy estimates that the existing rock is good for another
>> hundred years with a little maintenance. The slate is an incredible 
>> roofing
>> material, and it would be a shame to scrap it.
>>
>> One strategy that might work would be to take a diamond hole saw and cut
>> circles of slate out, over the rafters, to screw standoffs directly to 
>> the
>> rafters. Then an Oatey flashing could go over the standoff.
>>
>> Any feedback as to the viability of this method would be appreciated.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Drake Chamberlin
>> Athens Electric
>> OH License 44810
>> CO License 3773
>> NABCEP TM Certified PV Installer
>> Office - 740-448-7328
>> Mobile - 740-856-9648
>>
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