AEE Dump Load Element for Water Heaters [RE-wrenches]

[Travis Creswell]

Thanks to all that have responded!  I really need to get this figured out
before I make another 4.5 drive one way.

I'm starting to understand part of my problem.  I had two elements to
install.  I was able to easily bottom out the first one by hand.  This led
me to assume they were straight threads since I had never installed them
before.  When I installed the 2nd one it acted like it was cross threaded so
I pulled it out to confirm it wasn't.  I continued to install it assuming
that I just needed to "clean the threads up" but it did really to tighten up
as it barely required any force to bottom out.  I even switched holes and
elements before I proceeded to make sure the water heater didn't have bunged
up threads.  The 1st element bottomed out by hand in either hole.

So I think what happened to me was the 1st one I installed somehow had
straight threads (or not hardly any taper if that’s' possible) and the 2nd
one had very little taper.  And certainly not enough taper to lead me to
believe that it was tapered.  Of course I was using a 4' cheater bar on my
element socket so maybe that threw me off (just kidding).

Personally, I still don't think I trust a tapered to straight plumbing
connection and have my doubts about 20yrs w/o problems.  That streak just
ended by the way.  That's certainly not standard and I bet most plumbers
would agree.  Why is it so hard for vendors to supply products that don’t
require all this fussing about?  I'm not busting on AEE.  I've been happy
with their service and products in the past but there seem to be so many
things in this industry that nobody seems to be able to get right...

Travis Creswell
Ozark Energy Services


-----Original Message-----
From: Darryl Thayer [mailto:daryl_solar at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 1:04 PM
To: RE-wrenches at topica.com
Subject: RE: AEE Dump Load Element for Water Heaters [RE-wrenches]


HI all 
I have a install where i am going to use the AEE dump
load for water heaters.  

I called and was told that they have a tapered thread
and do not use a rubber washer.  That in 20 years they
have not had a leak problem.  The manufacture
recomended we use teflon tape on threads.

As to the switching of DC I am concerned as to short
life of the contacts.  I am going to try a solid state
relay, and will inform group.

BTW I spoke with Morning Star on the PWM staying on to
prevent arcing, I was told that there is noway to
garrantee the TS45 or 60 stays on PWM.  
Darryl  
 
--- Windy Dankoff <windydankoff at mac.com> wrote:

> 
> Travis,
> 
> In general, mechanical switch contacts rated at
> 250VAC will handle same 
> rated current at 60VDC (with equal arc potential).
> 
> When it's pulsing by PWM, the arc potential is much
> less than constant 
> DC.
> 
> Windy
> 
> Travis wrote:
> > One thing that I haven't figured out is what's
> going to happen to the
> > existing T-stat when I run it on 48v (56v) and PWM
> that???
> 

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