Inverter/Battery Question (Round 3 well pumping & storage tanks) [RE-wrench

[Matt Tritt]

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Windy, et all,

Since I've had plenty of experience in this particular field, I will 
once again shoot off my mouth! :-)

Windy Dankoff wrote:

> Darryl,
>
> Your inspector is right, and that is the official attitude. Well  
> water often does contain soil bacteria that can grow in the tank. The  
> tank must be open (however slightly) to atmosphere in order to fill  
> and empty without bursting and collapsing, so it also draws in  
> airborne particles that can include bacteria and other organic matter.
>
> Government regulations for potable storage tanks require sanitizing.  
> Most commonly, chlorine is applied through an automatic system so a  
> small amount is maintained continuously.

Yep. When installing storage tanks for certain government agencies 
(notably the USFS), you are required to "sanitize" the tank's interior 
prior to filling for the first time by spraying the entire interior 
surface with chlorine bleach. This is really fun. After a judicious 
period of contact time, the tank is then filled with water - and a huge 
amount of bleach (say a gallon or so) and let stand for at least 24 
hours. Then the tank is completely drained (!!) and refilled with water 
and, usually, a cup of bleach. Ugh.

However, since chlorine is a recognized carcinogen, not everybody is 
keen on the idea of ingesting it This is why ozonation has become 
increasingly popular in the US (as it already is in much of the world). 
Having had the occasion to take the "Municipal Water Treatment Operator 
Class" at one time, I can say with 100% certainty that treating water 
with chlorine is, at best, reasonably effective (not 100% effective) in 
killing most pathogens (viruses like to "hide" in the extremely tiny 
nooks and crannies found on microscopic dirt particles (aka turbidity)) 
common in water. Because of this, chlorine cannot eliminate all 
pathogens in water, especially surface water.

>
> Based on long-traditional use of storage tanks, it is my impression  
> that significant pathogenic bacteria problems are very rare. But,  
> even benign bacteria can be a nuisance. In extreme cases it can cause  
> a thick jelly-like slime or a black septic condition, especially in a  
> system that sits unused for long periods.
>
> I haven't personally heard of these problems forming in a well water  
> tank but I know Ray W has had some bad experiences -- Ray?
>
> A good minimum preventive measure is to drop a small amount of bleach  
> into the tank periodically, at least during warm weather or before a  
> period of low usage.

Actually, for this method to be effective, you need to constantly 
monitor residual chlorine levels in the tank, much like in a swimming pool.

>
> I've had two solar pump / storage tank systems at two homes now,  
> totaling almost 10 years of use. I have a high count of soil bacteria  
> in my current well, but I've had no problem in my tank. The tanks in  
> both cases are buried polyethylene. They stay cool in summer, and  
> they have smooth surfaces. The tops have a gasket seal that's fairly  
> tight, and I installed a vent pipe to rise out, capped with an  
> improvised air filter to keep out dust and bugs.

This is a great way to store water. Unfortunately though, here in 
California, fire agencies require positive water pressure to be present 
at all hydrant heads, which usually means that one is stuck with a big, 
ugly steel or plastic blob in the yard.

>
> If a tank has large voids around its lid, especially near ground  
> level, then bugs and debris will enter. This gives bacterial  
> something to eat and multiply from. My understanding is that  
> pathogenic bacteria (unlike common soil bacteria) need a "warm body"  
> environment so they are very unlikely to be a problem except in the  
> tropics -- but that's theory and general experience, not government  
> policy.

Unfortunately - not so. Pathogenic organisms can hang around virtually 
forever just waiting to be ingested! These little guys exist in a cystic 
state (usually) and require environmental conditions that are "just so" 
to emerge and do their thing. It's not just bacteria we're talking 
about, it's also virus-like organisms. We usually (when I was active in 
the water tank business) installed an extension on the man (or Person) 
hole sufficient in height to be well above any potential flood level for 
buried tanks.

>
> In cases where a storage tank is required for fire prevention, the  
> question is -- should it be a normal part of the water supply, or  
> only an emergency holding tank. There are advantages to using it as a  
> normal part of the supply. In case of fire, the water can be released  
> through the normal plumbing with less likely necessity to start an  
> emergency pump, turn valves, etc. We're getting out of my field here,  
> so I'll appreciate more feedback.

Ahem...... Fire codes require a separate, dedicated line to serve 
hydrant heads and other fire fixtures - usually at least 1.5" ID, but 
generally 4" ID around here. If there is only one tank on site to 
service fire and domestic needs, I generally will specify that the 
domestic supply line be fitted at a point on the tank wall above the 
standing water level of the required gallonage for fire, which can only 
be accessed by the hydrant plumbing. Is that about as clear as mud?

Matt


FYI -- Terminology:  Storage tank = holding tank.  Cistern generally  
refers to rain catchment tanks

>
> Windy

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