SDHW overheat diversion [RE-wrenches]
bbassett at rockisland.com
bbassett at rockisland.com
Mon Sep 19 19:59:07 PDT 2005
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I believe that I sense a movement toward protection from overheating in
solar domestic hot water systems, probably due to potential liability
issues. I've noticed that there are some installers that have decided to
make their antifreeze system capable of being left in a stagnant
condition. This will indeed prevent overheating of the water in the
solar storage tank. This is accomplished by having a huge expansion tank
that can absorb the large increase in volume when the fluid boils in the
collectors, or in one potential case by having a semi drainback
antifreeze system that shuts down and drains the collector when a high
temperature is reached in the storage tank.
Regular, water only, drain back systems have been made to do this all
along, and I see no problem with it, other than maybe being hard on the
collector, both from being very hot and from being hit with water while
it's very hot. I'm not sure if this is a problem for longevity of the
collector or not.
If anyone reading here is thinking along these lines, I would like to
say that I think this is a REALLY BAD IDEA. When any of the glycol type
antifreezes (propylene or ethylene) are exposed to stagnation
temperatures reached in a collector, at up to 350 F, they will degrade
and become acidic. This acidic fluid will then corrode the copper
collector and all of the balance of the plumbing. Premature failure of
the system is almost certain. Even if the fluid is no longer present in
the collector in bulk, there is always a film left on the inside of the
pipe when drained, that will then degrade. We do not need failing
system problems in our industry!
I have now installed in my own system, a method to prevent overheating
of the solar storage tank. In the solar loop I have installed a high
temperature range anti-scald valve as a diversion valve. Most are OK'd
by the manufacturer for this use in heating systems. This diverts solar
fluid to a heat exchanger where it can dump the excess heat safely. This
keeps the entire system from overheating. In my case the diversion
radiator is a few parallel copper pipes in the crawl space under my
house. It could also consist of a stretch of baseboard heater under the
eave, or other innovative setups. I'm sure some of you can come up with
good ideas for this. So far mine has worked flawlessly and clamps the
temperature quite accurately.
One thing I have found to be aware of is that these valves have fairly
high resistance to flow, with Cv around 3.9 for the best ones, and worse
for others. My PV direct pumped system dropped from about 2 gpm to 1.6
gpm flow with the addition of this valve. Not a problem for mine, but if
your system is marginal for flow it would be a consideration. I have
found a valve made for the heating industry where the accuracy of an
anti-scald valve is not required and would present much less resistance
to flow, but I've hesitated so far because it is only available in cast
iron. I don't like iron in my systems, though it's supposedly OK with a
closed loop.
If you try this on any of your systems, please let us wrenches know how
it turns out. Any thoughts?
Brad
AEE Solar
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