Gerard Roofing Systems [RE-wrenches]

Tue Dec 2 08:56:55 PST 2003

Tom L (Gator Tom to his friends...Don't know where I come in on that
list... Probably Gator Bait....) Wrote:

> Does anyone have a solar electric system installed on a Gerard
> roofing system??
> Does anyone have a picture of one on a Gerard roof? 
> Any details about installation would be accepted.

Brrrrrrrr!!!!!

Yes to both questions.  Battles fought on this front... Suffice it to
say that most were won... Thank God!

Details / Suggestions follow.  (Tom, I'll send pics to you off-list)

If care is taken, installation can be accomplished in an acceptable and
"worry-free-later" manner.  By the way, unless they have a new product
out, it's not "Ceramic"... It's really just fine "colored sand" that
they spray onto a metal surface... They call it "Stone Coated"....
Little stones, if you ask me! 

1.  Beware!  The Gerard Stone Coated Steel Roofing System Installation
Manual allows many, many applications over numerous types of
underlayment.  The significant issue here is that there may or may not
be solid or reliable attachment to the roof structure below.  One
example is gyp-board over comp.... Where you gonna find a rafter with
that?

2.  I recommend NOT installing on such a Roofing System unless it is the
only roof material on the building. (I.E. Not an "overlay"
application...)

3.  I recommend installation of standoffs, attached to the rafters /
joists / trusses prior to the roof being installed.  This allows the
proper Sub / Counter-Flashings and  Flashings / Cutouts to be installed
by the Roofing Contractor, leaving the warranty intact.  To ensure
"real" attachment, I recommend doing it yourself!!!!!  

4.  I recommend discussing appropriate "walking & working on top of it"
techniques with the Roofer.  The stuff bends and creases when weight is
applied in the "field" of the "tile" sections.  I've seen many of these
and other brands actually have "slits" or tears where the creases occur
and have "rejected" them as suitable for retrofit PV applications.  I
don't think of it as "Steel", personally.  I think of it as "Tin-Can"!
The Roofer and the Homeowner may not like hearing that, by the way!
Been there!  Told them!

5.  If you are going to run conduit across the roof, you will need to
figure out how to secure it without compromising the integrity or
warranty.  I recommend using "Taffy" (Butyl Tape) to stick short
Uni-Strut blocks to the surface.  This method does not require a
"penetration" and does a good job.  Local Inspectors may or may not
require a mechanical attachment.  I don't know about your area.  Heard
them 'Canes get rough, from a "Code" perspective.  I recommend using
7/8" Strut and placing the blocks just below the "up-side" tile
section.... Does that make sense?  It keeps the conduit low to the roof
for aesthetic appeal.

6.  I recommend painting conduit and strut blocks to match.  The Owner
is selecting this product for a few reasons, I'm sure.  Fire Rating,
Longevity, Aesthetics, Etc.  Painting your "stuff" helps with the
Aesthetic part at least.  Ask the Roofer for a recommended color, or
better yet, a can of the same spray paint he will be using on the
flashings.  Once installed and painted, the conduit "disappears".

7.  Now, onto the Most Dreaded Issue!  To ground or not to ground?????
It's a metal roof.  Individual "Tile" sections on each slope are
mechanically fastened to one another by nails or sheet metal screws
driven into the battens.... Hmmmm.  Does this constitute a viable
grounding path?  Can't really say, from a "Code" perspective, but my
instinct tells me that, if screw are used, the sheer number of them
could be argued to be a solid ground.  If nails are used, good luck
making that argument.  (Experience here is that nails are the "method du
jour".)  What to do?  Install your own Self-Drilling machine screws in
the areas of the array and any portion that may be in contact with
conduit and associated supports?  (Install them in the "vertical lip",
if you do...)  Does the "Stone Coating" effectively insulate the metal
from the raceway(s) and racking?  I don't believe it will, especially
when wet.  Don't know what to tell ya', here... Just be aware.  It's
something you'll have to decide for yourself... Perhaps with some
"Inspector" Input, if appropriate... I'm not into stirring that
"Hornet's nest", personally... I prefer to come up with my own answer
and the justifications for it before they "lay their beady little eyes"
on it!

Two cents from a Lotto Loser!

Pray for Sun!

Matt Lafferty
Universal Energies Institute
mlafferty at universalenergies.com
(916) 422-9772
(916) 628-7694 Cell
(916) 914-2247 Fax
www.universalenergies.com

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