[RE-wrenches] Trojan L16RE-2V set-points
Dana
dana at solarwork.com
Tue Sep 11 22:09:29 EDT 2018
Return amps = End amps sorry.
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Dana Orzel Great Solar Works, Inc.
C - 208.721.7003 dana at solarwork.com
Idaho Contractor - # 028765 Idaho PV # 028374
NABCEP # 051112-136 <http://www.solarwork.biz> www.solarwork.biz
"Responsible Technologies for Responsible People since 1988"
P Please consider the environment before printing this email.
From: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org> On Behalf Of Dana
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2018 8:08 PM
To: 'RE-wrenches' <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L16RE-2V set-points
Return amps at 0 is physically impossible I think. The lowest Return amps I have ever seen acknowledged by a charge controller on a 24-volt set was 3-4 amps on a new set of batteries. Older sets 6-8 amps.
I was trying to see how low you could go before it would stop Bulk.
29.8 for 6 hours? was cooking them plates& boiling off electrolyte. These batteries must have been so hot.
To Float my 48-volt HUP set takes about 250-300 watts with no load. 5.21-6.25 amps.
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Dana Orzel Great Solar Works, Inc.
C - 208.721.7003 dana at solarwork.com <mailto:dana at solarwork.com>
Idaho Contractor - # 028765 Idaho PV # 028374
NABCEP # 051112-136 www.solarwork.biz <http://www.solarwork.biz>
"Responsible Technologies for Responsible People since 1988"
P Please consider the environment before printing this email.
From: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org> On Behalf Of Mac Lewis
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2018 6:44 PM
To: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org <mailto:re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org> >
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L16RE-2V set-points
Hello wrenches,
I inspected a system that another company had installed. It had single string of 12 x Trojan L16RE-2V batteries about 2 years old. They had experienced a battery melt-down. It looks as though the meltdown had occurred internally, not from a bad connection.
The system was dual stack Outback VFXR-3524A inverters (to be precise one was a sealed unit). The set-points were as follows:
Absorb Voltage was 29.8V
Absorb Time was 6.0 hours
Float Voltage was 27.0V
Rebulk Voltage was 27.0V
End Amps was 0A
These settings extended similarly to 2 x FM80 charge controllers.
I was able to jumper the melted battery and get her power in 15 minutes. Her installer had left her without power for 2 weeks. My clients will kill me if that happened!
Anyway, I believe these set-points are way out of whack and too aggressive. The voltage is OK (Trojan recommends ~29.6V for this) but the Absorb time seems way too long, Rebulk is too high and end amps isn't helping. However, Im not finding a definitive article from Trojan that describes typical Absorb times or even how to adjust towards a good Absorb Time, based on specific gravity measurements or amperage absorption.
My diagnosis is that these batteries have been cooked over the past 2 years. In the electrolyte, there is noticeable "floaties". The client said that the original installer had accused her of not using distilled water, but I don't believe that would cause her symptoms. I believe the floaties are plate material.
I'd be interested in wrenches opinions familiar with these batteries if these are appropriate settings for a low energy user. I will attempt to get through to Trojan as well.
Thanks in advance
--
Mac Lewis
"Yo solo sé que no sé nada." -Sócrates
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