[RE-wrenches] Trojan L16RE-2V set-points

[Dana]

Return amps at 0 is physically impossible I think. The lowest Return amps I have ever seen acknowledged by a charge controller on a 24-volt set was 3-4 amps on a new set of batteries. Older sets 6-8 amps.

I was trying to see how low you could go before it would stop Bulk.

29.8 for 6 hours? was cooking them plates& boiling off electrolyte. These batteries must have been so hot.

To Float my 48-volt HUP set takes about 250-300 watts with no load. 5.21-6.25 amps.

 

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Dana Orzel                              Great Solar Works, Inc. 

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Idaho Contractor - # 028765         Idaho PV # 028374

NABCEP # 051112-136                       www.solarwork.biz <http://www.solarwork.biz> 

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P Please consider the environment before printing this email.

 

 

From: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org> On Behalf Of Mac Lewis
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2018 6:44 PM
To: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Trojan L16RE-2V set-points

 

Hello wrenches,

 

I inspected a system that another company had installed.  It had single string of 12 x Trojan L16RE-2V batteries about 2 years old.  They had experienced a battery melt-down.  It looks as though the meltdown had occurred internally, not from a bad connection.

 

The system was dual stack Outback VFXR-3524A inverters (to be precise one was a sealed unit).  The set-points were as follows:

Absorb Voltage was 29.8V

Absorb Time was 6.0 hours

Float Voltage was 27.0V

Rebulk Voltage was 27.0V

End Amps was 0A

 

These settings extended similarly to 2 x FM80 charge controllers.

 

I was able to jumper the melted battery and get her power in 15 minutes.  Her installer had left her without power for 2 weeks.  My clients will kill me if that happened!

 

Anyway, I believe these set-points are way out of whack and too aggressive.  The voltage is OK (Trojan recommends ~29.6V for this) but the Absorb time seems way too long, Rebulk is too high and end amps isn't helping.  However, Im not finding a definitive article from Trojan that describes typical Absorb times or even how to adjust towards a good Absorb Time, based on specific gravity measurements or amperage absorption.  

 

My diagnosis is that these batteries have been cooked over the past 2 years.  In the electrolyte, there is noticeable "floaties".  The client said that the original installer had accused her of not using distilled water, but I don't believe that would cause her symptoms.  I believe the floaties are plate material.

 

I'd be interested in wrenches opinions familiar with these batteries if these are appropriate settings for a low energy user.  I will attempt to get through to Trojan as well.

 

Thanks in advance

 




 

-- 

 

 

 

Mac Lewis

"Yo solo sé que no sé nada." -Sócrates

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