Kohler full-output at 120 volts? [RE-wrenches]

[Phil Undercuffler]

An important note of clarification about breaking the bond in the generator:

I found a potential for misunderstanding in Allan's message.  If you have a
genset that allows the bond to be broken internally, such as the Kohler
units, (Allan's note 1) I believe the genset should be grounded to the main
system ground.  If you choose to drive a suplemental ground rod near the
genset, that rod should be connected to the main ground rod.

However, if your genset's bond cannot be broken, as in most "contractor
specials," then follow Allan's notes 2&3.  The idea is based on "seperately
derived systems" in the code, most commonly seen in farm outbuildings.
Multiple services spread out on a property, only one meter/disconnect/bond
point and NO ground wires, metal conduit, metal pipes, gutters, rebar, or
any other potential ground conductor between.  No where in the code does it
state a minimum safe distance, so distance between the generator and any
grounded point in this case is going to be at the discretion of your common
sense and the athority having jurisdiction.

By the way, I would like to know more about those 120/240 switches on some
Honda units.  Do they allow full output at 120?

Phil Undercuffler
Positive Energy
----- Original Message -----
From: allan <allan at positivenergy.com>
To: <RE-wrenches at topica.com>
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: Kohler full-output at 120 volts? [RE-wrenches]


> Gary and wrenches:
>     First, a caveat: We have been Kohler dealers since early '99 (the
> distributor invited a few dealers in CO and NM, anticipating Y2K business,
> and they were right).  So we are most familiar with the 8.5 and 11 RMY air
> cooled homeowner units that replaced the wonderful 6.5 RMY
flathead-powered
> unit of years past, and the smaller water-cooled RY/RZ units of 10, 12,
and
> 20kW.  There are other models for other markets that I'm not familiar
with,
> and 17 and 22 kW models that don't derate well for our 6-9,000'
elevations.
> So these LP/natural gas units are what we have installed.
>     The reconnection diagrams are in Section 5 of the installation manuals
> that come with the units.  Basically, the generator has 4 stator leads; 2
> and 3 are tied together as neutral for 120/240 operation, and 1 and 3 are
> tied together as neutral for straight 120V output.  I will not say any
more
> here, to cover my rear.  Check diagrams 5-1 thru 5-4 in the manual for
> morecomplete info.
>     Onan Commercial units are also configurable to 120V.  Their Marquis RV
> series only comes 120.  Some Hondas come with a switchable output, but I'm
> not positive it's a bona fide full (balanced) 120V output.  Wrenches?
>
>     While we're on the subject, here's something that is usually
overlooked
> but is a serious safety issue.  All the generators I've seen come
internally
> bonded neutral-to-ground.  They have to, to protect dumb homeowners who
> don't ground the units.  If you connect the gennie ground lug in the
output
> to the home system ground (which you automatically will do if you use a
> proper plug and cord, wired up normally), you will have a current-carrying
> parallel path to your AC output neutral, as you will have two
> neutral-to-ground bonds in the system when the generator is connected.  I
> have measured it with an amp-clamp.  This is a major safety no-no.
> 1) Break your neutral-to-ground bond if you can.  Kohlers use two ground
> lugs, side-by-side in the terminal area.  Float the neutral stator wires;
we
> use a #6 split bolt with a floating splice.  Onan something similar.
Cheapo
> units can't be unbonded, so:
> 2) Run only hot and neutral wires between the two points.  Tape off the
> ground conductor if there is one (SO cord or the like) at both ends.
Label
> what you've done.
> 3) Bond the gennie chassis to its own ground rod, that is separate from
any
> system grounding.  Keep the gennie physically out of reach of anything
> connected to ground in the house.
>
>     I would appreciate any feedback on this, especially any inaccuracies
in
> what I've written.  By the way, Dankoff is carrying the smaller Kohler
units
> for their dealers.  Am I allowed to say this here??
>
> Allan at Positive Energy
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gary Higbee, Solutions from the Land <ghigbee at efn.org>
> To: RE-wrenches at topica.com <RE-wrenches at topica.com>
> Date: Monday, August 28, 2000 3:23 PM
> Subject: Kohler full-output at 120 volts? [RE-wrenches]
>
>
> >Hi Wrenches,
> >
> >Allan at Positive E wrote "All Kohlers thru 12 or 20kW or so can be wired
> >120 VAC output, so you don't have to match a pair of inverter/charger
loads
> >on each leg of 240 VAC output..."
> >
> >How this is done?
> >
> >I do mostly stand-alone systems, and haven't messed with generators much.
> >I'm working with a client now, though, who's going to be using his Kohler
> >propane generator (around 7kW) with a SW5548, 16 L-16's, running a
Grundfos
> >Model 10 SQ sub pump (9-10gpm measured at 425', "efficient," soft-start)
> and
> >general household loads. He'll be generator-charging until we add a
couple
> >KW of solar in the future (when the $ tree grows up!).
> >
> >If there's a way to get (balanced) full-output from the Kohler without a
> >T/240 I'd love to know how ASAP. Thank You!
> >
> >
> >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> >     Gary Higbee  (ghigbee at efn.org)
> >             (541)607-1818
> >    Solutions from the Land--solar,
> >  wind, and hydro site analysis, design,
> >       and installation assistance
> >~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> >
> >
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 michael.welch at homepower.com
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