[RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad?

August Goers august at luminalt.com
Tue Apr 11 07:13:11 PDT 2017


As a related note, the 2014 NEC has an addition that allows field-installed
drainage holes in junction boxes:





We’ve found that installing drain or weep holes is a very good idea to keep
water from accumulating in outdoor boxes and conduit bodies.



August





*From:* August Goers [mailto:august at luminalt.com]
*Sent:* Tuesday, April 11, 2017 6:46 AM
*To:* RE-wrenches <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
*Subject:* RE: [RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad?



Hi Chris,



I’ve contacted Ideal about the suitability for their copper crimp
connectors to be used in outdoor locations in approved junction boxes.
Their response was that they are listed to UL 486C and are designed to be
used in approved outdoor boxes. I’ll forward the email to you off list.



That said, they do not have the dielectric silicone grease that an outdoor
wire nut has and if a J-box fills with water then there could be a
potential fault between adjacent conductors or to ground.



August





*From:* RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] *On
Behalf Of *cwarfel at entech-engineering.com
*Sent:* Monday, April 10, 2017 4:45 PM
*To:* RE-wrenches <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
*Subject:* Re: [RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad?



I haven't seen a reply regarding the NEC requirement (by some AHJs), that
all of these connectors, except waterproof connectors cannot be used in
outside JBs.   Has anyone else run into this? Thanks for any insight.  Chris





On 2017-04-10 15:48, eric at harvesthesun.com wrote:

Good discussion here. I will not rule out loose connections entirely but I
will say that our installers know that can be an issue and really tighten
their connections. I like William's suggestion of fabricating an MC-type
connector at the PV Wire to THWN transition. At least I presume that's what
he's suggesting. Indeed we've moved away from the screw-type Polaris and
are not interested in the old-fashioned wire nut. We're 100% Sunpower and
they recommend the Buchannon's so that's what we're installing today.
However, I'm going to investigate the Miller method. William has never led
me astray!



Eric Stikes

SunHarvest





--------- Original Message ---------

Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad?
From: "William Miller" <william at millersolar.com>
Date: 4/8/17 2:48 pm
To: "RE-wrenches" <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>



Wrenches:



I am wondering why the proliferation of splices in PV leads?  We all know
splices are a weak link.



We allow only one connection between a module and the feeder destination--
be it a combiner, inverter or optimizer-- and it is an MC connector, one
side of which is factory-made and provided by the module manufacturer.



If one plans and pulls PV circuits with forethought, splices should not be
necessary.



If anyone wants to know more about how this can be accomplished, look at
our web site or contact me off list.



William


On Apr 8, 2017, at 10:05 AM, Glenn Burt <glenn.burt at glbcc.com> wrote:

It is also worth noting that many of the SMA installation manuals
specifically say do not use wire nuts on DC wiring.
Of course choosing to ignore the manufacturers installation instructions
would be a NEC violation.
------------------------------

*From: *Drake <drake.chamberlin at redwoodalliance.org>
*Sent: *‎4/‎8/‎2017 12:10
*To: *RE-wrenches <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
*Subject: *Re: [RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad?


At 01:35 PM 4/6/2017, you wrote:

Recently we interfaced with another solar install firm that has gone back
to wire nuts due to this same problem.


Wire nuts have the advantage of holding the wires tight with a spring. The
spring follows the cold flow of the copper over the years. A screw type
connection does not.

When I service an old breaker box, usually the wires are loose under the
screw connections, especially on the neutral and grounding bars. Often they
are very loose, and I bet that the screws were tight after the initial
installation of the equipment.

On old industrial control equipment, I've learned the hard way to tighten
all screws before doing anything in the box, as wires are prone to fall out
of the loose screw connections. Again, these connections have the weakness
of being held by terminal screws, with no spring to follow the cold flow of
the metal.

With wire nuts, it can be a bit tricky to know if you have a good
connection, as the connection is hidden under the plastic cap. It is good
to pull hard on each wire separately to be sure it is securely under the
spring. It is crucial never to mix copper and aluminum under a wire nut
unless it is one specifically designed for the purpose. Unless specifically
listed, all out door wire nuts should be in a weather proof box, and
preferably taped.

Drake Chamberlin
*Athens Electric LLC*




*OH License 44810CO License 3773NABCEP Certified Solar PV 740-448-7328*
http://athens-electric.com/



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