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--></style></head><body lang="EN-US" link="blue" vlink="purple"><div class="WordSection1"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">As a related note, the 2014 NEC has an addition that allows field-installed drainage holes in junction boxes:</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><img width="334" height="275" style="width:3.4791in;height:2.8645in" id="Picture_x0020_1" src="cid:image001.png@01D2B292.E213E650"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"></span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">We’ve found that installing drain or weep holes is a very good idea to keep water from accumulating in outdoor boxes and conduit bodies.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">August</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> </span></p><div><div style="border:none;border-top:solid #e1e1e1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in"><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> August Goers [mailto:<a href="mailto:august@luminalt.com">august@luminalt.com</a>] <br><b>Sent:</b> Tuesday, April 11, 2017 6:46 AM<br><b>To:</b> RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>><br><b>Subject:</b> RE: [RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad?</span></p></div></div><p class="MsoNormal"> </p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">Hi Chris,</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">I’ve contacted Ideal about the suitability for their copper crimp connectors to be used in outdoor locations in approved junction boxes. Their response was that they are listed to UL 486C and are designed to be used in approved outdoor boxes. I’ll forward the email to you off list.</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">That said, they do not have the dielectric silicone grease that an outdoor wire nut has and if a J-box fills with water then there could be a potential fault between adjacent conductors or to ground. </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">August</span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> </span></p><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> </span></p><div><div style="border:none;border-top:solid #e1e1e1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in"><p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif"> RE-wrenches [mailto:<a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b><a href="mailto:cwarfel@entech-engineering.com">cwarfel@entech-engineering.com</a><br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, April 10, 2017 4:45 PM<br><b>To:</b> RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad?</span></p></div></div><p class="MsoNormal"> </p><p><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">I haven't seen a reply regarding the NEC requirement (by some AHJs), that all of these connectors, except waterproof connectors cannot be used in outside JBs. Has anyone else run into this? Thanks for any insight. Chris</span></p><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"> </span></p></div><p><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"> </span></p><p><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">On 2017-04-10 15:48, <a href="mailto:eric@harvesthesun.com">eric@harvesthesun.com</a> wrote:</span></p><blockquote style="border:none;border-left:solid #1010ff 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 5.0pt;margin-left:0in;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt"><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">Good discussion here. I will not rule out loose connections entirely but I will say that our installers know that can be an issue and really tighten their connections. I like William's suggestion of fabricating an MC-type connector at the PV Wire to THWN transition. At least I presume that's what he's suggesting. Indeed we've moved away from the screw-type Polaris and are not interested in the old-fashioned wire nut. We're 100% Sunpower and they recommend the Buchannon's so that's what we're installing today. However, I'm going to investigate the Miller method. William has never led me astray!</span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"> </span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">Eric Stikes</span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">SunHarvest</span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"> </span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"> </span></p></div><blockquote style="border:none;border-left:solid #c2c2c2 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 2.0pt;margin-left:3.0pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">--------- Original Message --------- </span></p><div><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad?<br>From: "William Miller" <<a href="mailto:william@millersolar.com">william@millersolar.com</a>><br>Date: 4/8/17 2:48 pm<br>To: "RE-wrenches" <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>></span></p><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"> </span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">Wrenches:</span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"> </span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">I am wondering why the proliferation of splices in PV leads? We all know splices are a weak link. </span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"> </span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">We allow only one connection between a module and the feeder destination-- be it a combiner, inverter or optimizer-- and it is an MC connector, one side of which is factory-made and provided by the module manufacturer. </span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"> </span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">If one plans and pulls PV circuits with forethought, splices should not be necessary. </span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"> </span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">If anyone wants to know more about how this can be accomplished, look at our web site or contact me off list. </span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"> </span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">William</span></p></div><div><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"><br>On Apr 8, 2017, at 10:05 AM, Glenn Burt <</span><a href="mailto:glenn.burt@glbcc.com"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">glenn.burt@glbcc.com</span></a><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">> wrote:</span></p></div><blockquote style="border:none;border-left:solid #1010ff 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in 5.0pt;margin-left:0in;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5.0pt"><div><div><div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">It is also worth noting that many of the SMA installation manuals specifically say do not use wire nuts on DC wiring. <br>Of course choosing to ignore the manufacturers installation instructions would be a NEC violation.</span></p></div></div><div><div class="MsoNormal" align="center" style="text-align:center"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"><hr size="2" width="100%" align="center"></span></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom:12.0pt"><b><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">From: </span></b><a href="mailto:drake.chamberlin@redwoodalliance.org"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">Drake</span></a><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"><br></span><b><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">Sent: </span></b><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">4/8/2017 12:10</span><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"><br></span><b><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">To: </span></b><a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">RE-wrenches</span></a><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"><br></span><b><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">Subject: </span></b><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif">Re: [RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad?</span></p></div><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"><br>At 01:35 PM 4/6/2017, you wrote:</span></p><blockquote style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">Recently we interfaced with another solar install firm that has gone back to wire nuts due to this same problem.</span></p></blockquote><p><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"><br>Wire nuts have the advantage of holding the wires tight with a spring. The spring follows the cold flow of the copper over the years. A screw type connection does not. <br><br>When I service an old breaker box, usually the wires are loose under the screw connections, especially on the neutral and grounding bars. Often they are very loose, and I bet that the screws were tight after the initial installation of the equipment. <br><br>On old industrial control equipment, I've learned the hard way to tighten all screws before doing anything in the box, as wires are prone to fall out of the loose screw connections. Again, these connections have the weakness of being held by terminal screws, with no spring to follow the cold flow of the metal. <br><br>With wire nuts, it can be a bit tricky to know if you have a good connection, as the connection is hidden under the plastic cap. It is good to pull hard on each wire separately to be sure it is securely under the spring. It is crucial never to mix copper and aluminum under a wire nut unless it is one specifically designed for the purpose. Unless specifically listed, all out door wire nuts should be in a weather proof box, and preferably taped. <br><br>Drake Chamberlin<br><em><span style="font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">Athens Electric LLC</span></em><i><br><em><span style="font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">OH License 44810</span></em><br><em><span style="font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">CO License 3773</span></em><br><em><span style="font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">NABCEP Certified Solar PV </span></em><br><em><span style="font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">740-448-7328</span></em><br></i></span><a href="http://athens-electric.com/"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif">http://athens-electric.com/</span></a></p><div id="DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2"><p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Verdana",sans-serif"> </span></p><table class="MsoNormalTable" border="1" cellpadding="0" style="border:none;border-top:solid #d3d4de 1.0pt"><tr><td width="55" 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