[RE-wrenches] Shurflo pump

Wed Jun 1 12:23:25 PDT 2016

This is the cable we use for the 9300's. Haven't had any issues as long as prepared properly. But would much prefer pigtails and heat shrink butt splicing, way faster and leak-free.

https://www.anixter.com/en_ca/product-detail.PS-Copper%2BShipboard%2BCable.LSDSGU-9.html

Kevin

From: RE-wrenches [mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org] On Behalf Of Allan Sindelar
Sent: June-01-16 12:08 PM
To: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Shurflo pump

Gary,
What I suspect may be at issue is the wire. Shurflo requires jacketed cable (10 or 12 AWG) of a particulat dimensional range. The issue is that few suppliers carry the right cable. It's a Code issue - any pump with a metal case requires an equipment bonding conductor (silly, I know) which means three conductors, which won't fit in the cable gland. Having a nonconductive plastic case, the 9300 only needs two conductors, will only fit two conductors, and no pump or electrical supply house carries two-conductor cable because nothing they sell uses it. Sort of a catch-22.

Also, using unjacketed (yellow) multiconductor cable is a guaranteed way to get water into the motor.

Hope this helps.
Allan
Allan Sindelar
allan at sindelarsolar.com<mailto:allan at sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
505 780-2738 cell

On 6/1/2016 12:53 PM, Gary Higbee wrote:
Drake and Wrenches,

Interesting timing as I experienced a failure with my 9300 a couple weeks ago. I originally installed the pump about 17 years ago for an off-grid cabin I had then. I put the pump in the well, tested it, then removed it after a year or so. In total it had about 30 minutes of run time. The pump sat around in the house for about 15 years before I tested it in a bucket, in preparation for installing it in a new well on a different piece of land. The test went fine though I decided to put a new gland connector on the wire, which was a royal pain. The 10 ga submersible wire just met the maximum width noted in the documentation yet the hard plastic collar seemed to rub hard on the wire jacket when assembled and screwed in.

Down the new hole went the pump and we ran it solar-direct for testing. To our joy up came the water. Thirty minutes later, to our great dismay, the pump ran very slow then stopped (oh, from joy to despair in such a short time!). Testing showed module current around Isc for those conditions and only a couple volts, about 1 ohm with the module disconnected. Up came the works and we connected the module directly to the pump. No go. It seemed there may have been a little water where the gland connected to the pump socket, or it may have been a drip.

I haven't taken the pump apart yet so don't know if it's got water in it (expect it does). My guess is either the new gland connection had some problem OR the pump seals deteriorated as it sat on the shelf all those years (argh, should have thought of this possibility and replaced the seals).

Currently I'm waffling a bit on whether to rebuild the 9300 and try again or go with a Grundfos SQFlex. I'm not excited about the ~ $2500 for that (with controller, etc.), also am not excited about regular maintenance and maybe questionable reliability with the 9300.

I agree with the comments of others to run the pump solar-direct. If no success check the voltage and current with the module connected. It could be a short, as I experienced.

Then begs the question as to whether if rebuilt the Shurflo is worth putting back in the hole, or might better serve as a super-efficient water feature pump and spend the big bucks for a different well solution. The Grundfos I installed in a different well on the same land 16 years ago still runs flawlessly.

Gary

Gary Higbee
Windstream Solar
Oregon License 17LRT
Renewable Energy Consulting
Contracted with Energy Trust of Oregon and Emerald People's Utility District
gary at windstreamsolar.com<mailto:gary at windstreamsolar.com>
541-954-3881

Date: Tue, 31 May 2016 23:54:35 -0600
From: Allan Sindelar <allan at sindelarsolar.com<mailto:allan at sindelarsolar.com>>

Mac,
My experience is similar but slightly different. I have worked with the
Shurflo 9300 for nearly twenty years. I have closely followed the mfgr's
directions - even the temporary wrap of tape - and as far as I can
recall have had maybe one failure due to water penetration at the cable
gland. But I have seen a number of homeowner installs with this failure,
so it's easy to not get right. I agree that a fixed, sealed pigtail
would be a better approach, like a SunRotor, Grundfos or Lorentz.

The 9300 has a one-year warranty as I recall. Running open discharge
without float or time control, such as all day into a wildlife pond with
overflow, the pumps last about 1 1/2 years before needing the
diaphragm/drive kit and valve kit for a minor rebuild. If water never
reaches the motor, it will last through several of these lifetimes, but
usually folks don't do the service until the pump stops, and often a
failed diaphragm leads to water reaching the motor. But I have seen many
of these pumps go five or more years of intermittent duty needing nothing.

And the pump will run at less than half speed on a 12V battery. Standard
DC brush motor - speed and thus output vary directly with voltage.
Allan

*Allan Sindelar*
allan at sindelarsolar.com<mailto:allan at sindelarsolar.com> <mailto:allan at sindelarsolar.com>
NABCEP Certified PV Installation Professional
NABCEP Certified Technical Sales Professional
New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician
Founder (Retired), Positive Energy, Inc.
*505 780-2738 cell*

On 5/31/2016 1:30 PM, Mac Lewis wrote:

Hi Drake,

I'll second Kevin's suggestion that it may be the waterproofing
gland.  I see this as a very weak part of this pumps design and won't
ever use that pump again because of it.  The aquatec SWP-4000 is a
very similar pump.  Pump manufacturers should take responsibility for
the water-proofing into their unit.  Under water splices are super
easy compared to the gland/grease mess routine required with these pumps.

As Kevin suggested, bypass the controller and put good ~ 24VDC down
there (using batteries off of your cordless tools works well for this)
These pumps will pump off 18-20V.

Good luck

On Tue, May 31, 2016 at 10:58 AM, Kevin Pegg
<KPegg at energyalternatives.ca<mailto:KPegg at energyalternatives.ca> <mailto:KPegg at energyalternatives.ca>> wrote:

   Hi Drake,

   We have a lot of these pumps in the field, operating without issue
   for many years, though they are generally operating on some sort
   of regular basis. But lots of customers with seasonal situations
   that may have the pump idle for 10 months a year.

   I would suggest applying 12/24VDC battery power directly to the
   pump bypassing controller and see if you get any action, then can
   narrow down if it is a pump issue or a controller issue. Another
   issue is the waterproof gland if not done properly can result in
   connection issues. Have had a few of those.

   Kevin

   *Sent:* May-31-16 8:27 AM from Drake Chamberlin

   Hello Wrenches,

   A couple years back we installed a Shurflo 9325-043-101 water
   pump. It runs array direct. After installation, it worked fine.
   Since then, it  has not been used. The client tried to operate it
   recently,and it didn't work. A red light is showing in the controller.

   How well do these systems hold up if not used?

   I haven't gone out to the site yet, but wanted to get some
   background from you water pumping guys about shelf life of idle
   systems.

   Thanks,

   Drake

   Drake Chamberlin
   /Athens Electric LLC
   OH License 44810
   CO License 3773
   NABCEP Certified Solar PV
   740-448-7328 <tel:740-448-7328>
   /http://athens-electric.com/

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