[RE-wrenches] Metal shingles

Ray Walters ray at solarray.com
Thu Mar 21 19:30:12 PDT 2013


Just got back from our project.  Yes the the shingles interlock, so its 
hard to slide the flashing up under.  I used 1/16" cut off wheel in the 
grinder, to cut the lines for the Soladeck.  It came out pretty good, 
but we had a bit of trouble with the interlock grove underneath causing 
the flashing to ride up a little high.

R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760

On 3/21/2013 4:42 PM, Jesse Dahl wrote:
> Thanks for the advice. Good points on the warranty of the roofing 
> material, never crossed my mind...
>
> I have all the confidence I can cut the roof to flash (3 generation 
> carpenter before I became an electrician). What is the process for 
> removing a shingle? I'm guessing the shingles interlock where the overlap.
>
> Jesse
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 21, 2013, at 3:37 PM, Jason Szumlanski <jason at fafcosolar.com 
> <mailto:jason at fafcosolar.com>> wrote:
>
>> Tin snips does the trick. I have a guy with 20+ years of roof 
>> experience that's a craftsman with snips. It's easy to butcher it if 
>> you let a junior guy do it.
>>
>> *Jason Szumlanski*//
>>
>> /Fafco Solar/
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Ray Walters <ray at solarray.com 
>> <mailto:ray at solarray.com>> wrote:
>>
>>     How is this roof type for flashing?  Do you just cut it with a
>>     tin snips?  My project only entails replacing an unflashed
>>     conduit penetration with a Soladeck, so I'm hoping it won't be
>>     too bad.
>>
>>     R.Ray Walters
>>     CTO, Solarray, Inc
>>     Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
>>     Licensed Master Electrician
>>     Solar Design Engineer
>>     303 505-8760  <tel:303%20505-8760>
>>
>>     On 3/21/2013 8:58 AM, Jason Szumlanski wrote:
>>>     We've used the standoff and boot method successfully. It
>>>     dictates where you put your rows to some extent, but it's not
>>>     too bad. There is definitely a hefty up-charge on this roof
>>>     type. It adds quite a bit of labor and material.
>>>
>>>
>>>     *Jason Szumlanski*//
>>>
>>>     /Fafco Solar
>>>     /
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>     On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 7:52 AM, Will White
>>>     <William.White at realgoods.com
>>>     <mailto:William.White at realgoods.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>>         We've done a couple of installs on metal shingle roofs and
>>>         we used the Unirac stand offs with the Oatey boots.  We had
>>>         the standoffs and flashing installed by the roofer so it
>>>         wouldn't void the roof warranty.  It cost about $1500 extra
>>>         but we thought it was worth if in case of a leak.
>>>
>>>         Thanks,
>>>         Will
>>>
>>>
>>>         __________________________________________________________________________________________
>>>         Will White
>>>         Regional Field Operations Manager - New England
>>>
>>>         Real Goods Solar
>>>         64 Main St.
>>>         Montpelier, VT 05602
>>>         Tel: (802) 223-7804 <tel:%28802%29%20223-7804>
>>>         Cell: (802) 234-3167 <tel:%28802%29%20234-3167>
>>>         www.realgoodssolar.com <http://www.realgoodssolar.com>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>         -----Original Message-----
>>>         From: re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
>>>         <mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org>
>>>         [mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
>>>         <mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org>] On
>>>         Behalf Of Jesse Dahl
>>>         Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 11:33 PM
>>>         To: Wrenches
>>>         Subject: [RE-wrenches] Metal shingles
>>>
>>>         Hello,
>>>
>>>         I looked at a site today and the roofing was a brand of
>>>         metal shingle. This was just a quick drive by and check out
>>>         the site so I don't have access to the brand or method of
>>>         attachment.
>>>
>>>         It still got me thinking, what are people doing for
>>>         attachments to roofing like this?  6/12 pitch, and from the
>>>         photos the client sent me, the structure is 2"X6" truss
>>>         running N-S, with 1"x4" strapping every 4' running E-W along
>>>         with 5/8" OSB on top of the strapping.  The trusses look to
>>>         be on 4' centers (just judging by the photo).
>>>
>>>         The only thing I can think of is EJOT type fasteners through
>>>         the shingle into the truss. The shingles would crush a
>>>         little bit, but the OSB would support it pretty well.
>>>          Otherwise removing the shingles where the feet would go and
>>>         then.....
>>>
>>>         As always thanks for all the help.
>>>
>>>         Jesse
>>>
>>>         Sent from my iPhone
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>>
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