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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Just got back from our project.  Yes
      the the shingles interlock, so its hard to slide the flashing up
      under.  I used 1/16" cut off wheel in the grinder, to cut the
      lines for the Soladeck.  It came out pretty good, but we had a bit
      of trouble with the interlock grove underneath causing the
      flashing to ride up a little high.  <br>
      <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer, 
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760</pre>
      On 3/21/2013 4:42 PM, Jesse Dahl wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:1C0E7BC3-4C40-42DB-AB38-2034630FEC6F@gmail.com"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
        charset=ISO-8859-1">
      <div>Thanks for the advice. Good points on the warranty of the
        roofing material, never crossed my mind...</div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div>I have all the confidence I can cut the roof to flash (3
        generation carpenter before I became an electrician). What is
        the process for removing a shingle? I'm guessing the shingles
        interlock where the overlap.</div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div>Jesse <br>
        <br>
        Sent from my iPhone</div>
      <div><br>
        On Mar 21, 2013, at 3:37 PM, Jason Szumlanski <<a
          moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:jason@fafcosolar.com">jason@fafcosolar.com</a>>
        wrote:<br>
        <br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite">
        <div>
          <div dir="ltr">Tin snips does the trick. I have a guy with 20+
            years of roof experience that's a craftsman with snips. It's
            easy to butcher it if you let a junior guy do it.<br>
            <br>
            <div id="WISESTAMP_SIG_gmail_session">
              <div
                style="font-size:13px;font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
                <div style="margin:0 0 8px 0">
                  <p style="margin:0"><span style="color:#808080"><strong>Jason
                        Szumlanski</strong><em> </em></span></p>
                  <p style="margin:0">
                    <span style="color:#808080"><em>Fafco Solar</em></span><span
style="color:gray;font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:80%"> </span><br>
                  </p>
                </div>
              </div>
            </div>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
            <br>
            <div class="gmail_quote">
              On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Ray Walters <span
                dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                  href="mailto:ray@solarray.com" target="_blank">ray@solarray.com</a>></span>
              wrote:<br>
              <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
                .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
                <div text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
                  <div>How is this roof type for flashing?  Do you just
                    cut it with a tin snips?  My project only entails
                    replacing an unflashed conduit penetration with a
                    Soladeck, so I'm hoping it won't be too bad.
                    <div class="im"><br>
                      <pre cols="72">R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer, 
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
<a moz-do-not-send="true" href="tel:303%20505-8760" value="+13035058760" target="_blank">303 505-8760</a></pre>
                    </div>
                    <div>
                      <div class="h5"> On 3/21/2013 8:58 AM, Jason
                        Szumlanski wrote:<br>
                      </div>
                    </div>
                  </div>
                  <div>
                    <div class="h5">
                      <blockquote type="cite">
                        <div dir="ltr">We've used the standoff and boot
                          method successfully. It dictates where you put
                          your rows to some extent, but it's not too
                          bad. There is definitely a hefty up-charge on
                          this roof type. It adds quite a bit of labor
                          and material.<br>
                          <br>
                          <br>
                          <div>
                            <div
                              style="font-size:13px;font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
                              <div style="margin:0 0 8px 0">
                                <p style="margin:0"><span
                                    style="color:#808080"><strong>Jason
                                      Szumlanski</strong><em> </em></span></p>
                                <p style="margin:0"><span
                                    style="color:#808080"><em>Fafco
                                      Solar<br>
                                    </em></span><br>
                                </p>
                              </div>
                            </div>
                          </div>
                        </div>
                        <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
                          <br>
                          <div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Mar 21, 2013
                            at 7:52 AM, Will White <span dir="ltr"><<a
                                moz-do-not-send="true"
                                href="mailto:William.White@realgoods.com"
                                target="_blank">William.White@realgoods.com</a>></span>
                            wrote:<br>
                            <blockquote class="gmail_quote"
                              style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px
                              #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">We've done a
                              couple of installs on metal shingle roofs
                              and we used the Unirac stand offs with the
                              Oatey boots.  We had the standoffs and
                              flashing installed by the roofer so it
                              wouldn't void the roof warranty.  It cost
                              about $1500 extra but we thought it was
                              worth if in case of a leak.<br>
                              <br>
                              Thanks,<br>
                              Will<br>
                              <br>
                              <br>
__________________________________________________________________________________________<br>
                              Will White<br>
                              Regional Field Operations Manager - New
                              England<br>
                              <br>
                              Real Goods Solar<br>
                              64 Main St.<br>
                              Montpelier, VT 05602<br>
                              Tel: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                                href="tel:%28802%29%20223-7804"
                                value="+18022237804" target="_blank">(802)

                                223-7804</a><br>
                              Cell: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                                href="tel:%28802%29%20234-3167"
                                value="+18022343167" target="_blank">(802)

                                234-3167</a><br>
                              <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                                href="http://www.realgoodssolar.com"
                                target="_blank">www.realgoodssolar.com</a><br>
                              <div>
                                <div><br>
                                  <br>
                                  <br>
                                  -----Original Message-----<br>
                                  From: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                                    href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org"
                                    target="_blank">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>
                                  [mailto:<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                                    href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org"
                                    target="_blank">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>]
                                  On Behalf Of Jesse Dahl<br>
                                  Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 11:33
                                  PM<br>
                                  To: Wrenches<br>
                                  Subject: [RE-wrenches] Metal shingles<br>
                                  <br>
                                  Hello,<br>
                                  <br>
                                  I looked at a site today and the
                                  roofing was a brand of metal shingle.
                                  This was just a quick drive by and
                                  check out the site so I don't have
                                  access to the brand or method of
                                  attachment.<br>
                                  <br>
                                  It still got me thinking, what are
                                  people doing for attachments to
                                  roofing like this?  6/12 pitch, and
                                  from the photos the client sent me,
                                  the structure is 2"X6" truss running
                                  N-S, with 1"x4" strapping every 4'
                                  running E-W along with 5/8" OSB on top
                                  of the strapping.  The trusses look to
                                  be on 4' centers (just judging by the
                                  photo).<br>
                                  <br>
                                  The only thing I can think of is EJOT
                                  type fasteners through the shingle
                                  into the truss. The shingles would
                                  crush a little bit, but the OSB would
                                  support it pretty well.  Otherwise
                                  removing the shingles where the feet
                                  would go and then.....<br>
                                  <br>
                                  As always thanks for all the help.<br>
                                  <br>
                                  Jesse<br>
                                  <br>
                                  Sent from my iPhone<br>
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