[RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof

Tue Jul 3 06:43:43 PDT 2012

Bill,
Can you provide a link to the product you are using - I found a lot of
screws on that site but none called "structural".

Thanks

Chris

On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 7:08 PM, Bill Hoffer <sunengser at gmail.com> wrote:

> Mark
>
> Lags for me are old hat after using the newer structural screws.  I get
> them local from www.screw-products.com although I know there are more
> companies out there that make them for the Structural Insulation Panel
> industry.  Thinner than lags with comparable strength, they drive easy with
> no predrilling, and are less likely to blow out a truss.  Come in many
> different lengths and use a special star head with a built in washer.  I
> use thick butyl tape on the foot and a small rubber washer on the screw
> head , together they work great!  If you want a little more security a dab
> of the appropriate sealer in the foot slot before finally tightening it
> down works too.  Only way to go on corrugated metal roofs where there is no
> real option for flashing.
>
> Bill
>
>
> On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 3:40 PM, <mark at hurshtown.com> wrote:
>
>> My 18V Milwaukee cordless hammer drill has no trouble driving a 5/16" lag
>> into anything I've ever encountered.
>> If you put the lag anywhere near the middle of the rafter it won't split.
>>  If it splits, it must be some cheap stuff from Home Depot.
>> Only an engineer with no practical experience would insist on a pilot
>> hole and the resulting reduction in holding strength.  I'm assuming the IBC
>> consists of a bunch of bureaucrats that value control over common sense.
>> In this instance flashing offers no benefit, and may even be
>> counter-productive if incorrectly installed and it causes rain to collect
>> under it.  My experience is in northern Indiana where it does rain and the
>> wind does blow.  (Record 91 mph winds last Thursday.)  Less severe weather
>> than Michigan, but close.
>> I use the best silicone caulk Menards has to offer.  I've never worried
>> about compatibility.  It definitely won't dry up and crack away like the
>> black roof cement some swear by and insist on.  15+ year old silicone caulk
>> is yellowed a bit but that's the only change.
>> If the silicone and shingle aren't getting along, I've never heard them
>> complain.
>>
>> Mark
>> (Disclaimer: Portions of the preceding are the opinions of the author.)
>>
>>  -------- Original Message --------
>> Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
>> From: Dave Click <daveclick at fsec.ucf.edu>
>> Date: Mon, July 02, 2012 10:29 am
>> To: re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org
>>
>> I always thought that installing lag screws was tough enough with pilot
>> holes- I should hit the gym. I'm not a structural PE, but I think that
>> not drilling pilot holes violates the American Wood Council's National
>> Design Specs and therefore violates the IBC too. I would imagine that
>> you'd be much more likely to split your trusses. IBC also requires
>> flashings be used but at least around here inspectors never ask for it
>> (which makes sense- as you all know, Florida never sees wind or rain,
>> and definitely not at the same time). What silicone do you use that's
>> compatible with asphalt shingles?
>>
>> DKC
>>
>> On 2012/7/1 21:13, mark at hurshtown.com wrote:
>> > In my 20 year experience of lagging down L feet on shingle roofs in
>> > Indiana with a good dollop of silicone caulk under the foot, I've never
>> > had an issue. No pre-drilling, just drive the lag home. Drilling a hole
>> > first is not necessary, and reduces holding strength. No reason to make
>> > a science project out of it and increase cost and labor.
>> >
>> > Mark
>> >
>> > -------- Original Message --------
>> > Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
>> > From: Drake <drake.chamberlin at redwoodalliance.org
>> > <mailto:drake.chamberlin at redwoodalliance.org<drake.chamberlin at redwoodalliance.org>
>> >>
>> > Date: Fri, June 29, 2012 3:09 pm
>> > To: RE-wrenches <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org
>> > <mailto:re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org<re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
>> >>
>> >
>> > Hi Jay,
>> >
>> > There is no room for flashings. The L feet will go very close to the
>> > skylights and the flashing would hit the edge of them. Plus there is
>> > an existing array that was done by another installer that is done
>> > with L feet only. The new array would be higher.
>> >
>> >
>> >> And given that we have really good off the shelf approved flashed
>> >> feet, why would you use anything else?
>> >>
>> >> My 2 cents,
>> >>
>> >> Jay
>> >>
>> >> peltz power
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> On Jun 29, 2012, at 5:16 AM, Glenn Burt wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> We have used a variety of sealants over the years, and determined
>> >>> simple Henry roofing cement is the best product for use on comp
>> >>> roofing.
>> >>>
>> >>> We also used to bend our own L-foot flashing, which we cut from
>> >>> standard Al coil stock (before all the manufactured options were
>> >>> available). This might be a good option for you in this case.
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> Glenn
>> >>>
>> >>> *From:* re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org
>> >>> <mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org<re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org>
>> >
>> >>> [mailto:re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org<re-wrenches-bounces at lists.re-wrenches.org>]
>> *On Behalf Of
>> >>> *Drake
>> >>> *Sent:* Thursday, June 28, 2012 6:40 PM
>> >>> *To:* RE-wrenches
>> >>> *Subject:* [RE-wrenches] L feet no flashing in shingle roof
>> >>>
>> >>> I'm quoting a job that has an existing array with L feet bolted
>> >>> down to a shingle roof with no flashings. I want to match the
>> >>> height of the existing array. Also some modules are being worked
>> >>> in around skylights where it is unlikely that room would be
>> >>> available for flashings to center over rafters.
>> >>>
>> >>> I've always used flashings. Would it be completely crazy to
>> >>> follow suit of the existing array and bolt L feet straight to the
>> >>> shingle roof with good roof sealant? If so, how would you seal it?
>> > Drake Chamberlin
>> > ATHENS ELECTRIC LLC
>> > OH License 44810
>> > CO license 3773
>> > NABCEP Certified PV
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>
>
> --
> Bill Hoffer PE
> NABCEP Certified Solar PV Installer™
> Sunergy Engineering Services PLLC
> 2504 Columbia Ave NW
> East Wenatchee WA 98802-3941
> SunEngSer at gmail.com Cell:(509)679-6165
>
>
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-- 
Chris Mason
President, Comet Systems Ltd
www.cometenergysystems.com
Cell: 264.235.5670
Skype: netconcepts
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