[RE-wrenches] roof anchors and proper rigging

[Tom DeBates]

hello Wrenches,
  Many years ago I had the (unfortunate?) experience of working for a couple of roofing companies. I was much more nimble back then. It did however, teach me some good (and bad) methods of working on and and with roofing materials. Some tips:
- Roof jacks are very easy to install and we almost always install one at the eave line, if for no other reason, than to stop any dropped tools. I have been using a truss-head screws to anchor these ilo of nails. do NOT use "drywall screws". It is a quick set-up for a site survey.You do not need to remove the screws...just drive the jack up to remove. If the shingles are too brittle to lift, I place the screws through the face of the tab and after removing, slide a 5"X 5" piece of galvanized metal w/ dope under that tab.  A few years ago we had an installation on a standing-seam metal and we attached the jacks to S-5 clamps and laid  some cleated boards with carpet padding on the toeboard to access higher....worked nicely. Corrugated metal would be more difficult to work with. 
  Never walk backwards on a roof. This sounds stupid, but we can all have "a lapse of logic".
  Grainger has a nice chart of properties of the various sealing tapes/ agents. Seems like butyl and EPDM are best for our sealing applications and neoprene for isolation.
good luck,
tom


Tom DeBates

Habi-Tek

524 Summit St.

Geneva,IL. 60134

    630-262-8193

fax 630-262-1343


      
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