[RE-wrenches] Slate roof strategies

[Ken Schaal]

During the 80's we installed several SHW jobs on slate, one with 8 - 4x10 
collectors. It continues to be leak free.
The key thing to remember is that it is NOT the slate that keeps the water 
out, it is the tar paper underneath the slate. Here in Va. the paper is good 
for about 100 years before it dries out and deteriorates to the point where 
it can break up from wind storms. Then any wind driven rain can lead to 
leaks.
Of course , there are differing grades of tar paper-----------

For mounts to be water tight, the typical technique is to remove a slate 
with a slaters tool to remove the 2 nails holding the slate. Then slide a 
sheet of copper under
the tar paper shingle fashion--also a good time to check the tar paper to 
see what condition it is in-- so that there is a durable material to seal 
to.Then L feet can be installed with black silicone in the lag hole and 
under the foot, oozing out all around, especially on the uphill side, and 
smooth over to seal the top edge. Snug the lag but do not tighten 
excessively ! We want to maintain a silicone pad.
For those that need the security of a boot, it can be installed in 
conjunction with the copper flashing. A decorative piece of slate can even 
be installed by cutting a strip or 2 of copper strap that is fastened under 
the boot, or inserted into or under the main flashing, nailed with a copper 
nail and some silicone, extending below the bottom of the slate, and then 
bent up and over the bottom of the slate, making a durable hook. Remember, 
all the slate does is look good and protect the tar paper from UV rays.

Anytime a plumbing boot is installed, it is best if its inserted into or 
under the roofing material, not just caulked on top of the roofing.

I wouldn't use the' hole saw thru the slate'  ------------

Ken Schaal
CommonWealth Solar   ----slate roof territory





----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mick Abraham" <mick at abrahamsolar.com>
To: "RE-wrenches" <re-wrenches at lists.re-wrenches.org>
Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 4:35 PM
Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Slate roof strategies


Hi, Drake~ Consider this item:

http://www.sunslates.net/

These are sized to match Eternit brand slates. I know very little else
about this...but if you have a different size of slates... thinking...
somebody else is out there with other sizes.

OpenEnergy is a brand you might do well to search out, and friend
Brian on this list with Eagle Roofing may have other suggestions.

The "holesaw through the slate" idea sounds to me like it would
ultimately rely on a caulked seal between the Oatey flashing and the
slate upon which it rests. That sounds risky for what is probably a
high end roof with a high end structure beneath.

Jolliness,

Mick Abraham, Proprietor
www.abrahamsolar.com

Voice: 970-731-4675



On Sun, Jul 18, 2010 at 2:19 PM, Drake Chamberlin
<drake.chamberlin at redwoodalliance.org> wrote:
> Hi Wrenches,
>
> There was a strategy mentioned for slate roofs recently. Removing the 
> slate
> under the array area and replacing with decking and shingles would 
> certainly
> work. That might be the best solution.
>
> There are two potential problems however.
>
> It would cost a fair amount to replace that portion of the roof
> My slate roof guy estimates that the existing rock is good for another
> hundred years with a little maintenance. The slate is an incredible 
> roofing
> material, and it would be a shame to scrap it.
>
> One strategy that might work would be to take a diamond hole saw and cut
> circles of slate out, over the rafters, to screw standoffs directly to the
> rafters. Then an Oatey flashing could go over the standoff.
>
> Any feedback as to the viability of this method would be appreciated.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Drake Chamberlin
> Athens Electric
> OH License 44810
> CO License 3773
> NABCEP TM Certified PV Installer
> Office - 740-448-7328
> Mobile - 740-856-9648
>
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