grundfos sqflex [RE-wrenches]

[Jay Peltz, Peltz Power]

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Hi Windy,

Thanks for the info.

If I have access to a band saw, I use it to make many passes on the  
pipe 1-2" deep, works well.

I am curious about one thing.  In a well, often the "fresh" water  
comes from above the pump.  So in such a case
the water below the pump isn't being used.  Does the pipe casing at  
this point provide the chimney effect to bring cooling
water to the motor below the pump?

jay

peltz power
On Jun 23, 2008, at 2:49 PM, Windy Dankoff wrote:

>
>
> Jay,
>
> I just noticed Bob-O's reply, which reminds me -- You can reduce  
> intake of debris and provide a sleeve at the same time. Here is the  
> best idea I know for the job.
>
> Get a piece of plastic 5 or 6" pipe, perforated or slit. Ideally it  
> would be a scrap of actual perforated well casing -- that would  
> have sufficiently narrow slits for the purpose, sized for the needs  
> of a normal well pump in earth.
>
> Of course you need to seal the ends. One end has a simple cap. The  
> other end needs a pass-through fitting for the drop pipe. You can  
> make that using a compression fitting that's sold for pipe repairs  
> (fits over the pipe's OD). With threaded adapters and reducers, you  
> can make that up so that it forms a scew-off end for the sleeve.  
> Passing the cable through is next, but it doesn't have to be leak- 
> proof, so just a snug hole is OK.
>
> Ponds grow algae, so the next stage of protection is to wrap the  
> sleeve with about 5 layers of black weed barrier fabric -- the  
> black fuzzy coarse fabric that landscapers lay down before gravel,  
> to stop plant growth. That has been known to work well in some  
> troubling conditions. In your case, the finely-slit casing section  
> is probably adequate since bits of algae are not abrasive and  
> generally don't pose a problem.
>
> Site conditions vary, and so does my memory, but this is general  
> advice that I hope is helpful.
>
> Windy
>
> --
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>
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