board replacement in an Outback [RE-wrenches]

[Jeff Oldham]

Christopher chime in if I'm wrong, but in my experience of replacing 10 boards, you must remove the inverter and lay it on its back because the boards will not seat right and tend to fall out and can easily not register with the grooves in the chassis. Believe me I looked long and hard at this and again at board #5 or so 'cuz it's a real pain to pull them off of a Power Center or FW mounting plate. I spoke w/a bunch of Outbacker's at SolFest last month and they were eager to address this and thought it to be an easy fix. I'll bet the more to request this the quicker it gets done!! Other items mentioned that will hopefully get fixed soon- 2) Add KO's on the sides so if a FW stack is mounted vertically you can actually get battery cables into it. 3) replace those *&%$ phillips screws that hold the inverter to the mounting plate with hex head. These make pulling and remounting the inverter the most difficult part of the process. You can count on whomever assembled the FW for you to have shot those in with an impact driver so that you will nearly strip them out to get them out! Plus you need a long phillips with a wrench on it to bust them lose if you don't have an impact driver and long extention bit in it, something I do not travel with for international installs. 4) put a tapper on the end of the screws that hold the cover plate ("Valve cover") to the inverter as they can be a hassle to get them to index especially on the conduit adaptor side.
I find Outback to be a lot more responsive to these inputs then most of the others.
-jeff o.


>From the Solar, Wind and Hydro powered office of Jeff Oldham/Regenerative SOLutions

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