tankless water heaters [RE-wrenches]

Tom Elliot, Guffey Energy Works telliot at wagonmaker.com
Wed Dec 13 14:22:09 PST 2006


Jay,

That's fine for temperate zones but is useless for areas that freeze.

Our earlier model Aquastar worked great in the high country of Colorado, 
installed indoors, even though the venting could definitely be improved. 
Incredibly low gas usage and the endless hot water is great.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jay Peltz, Peltz Power" <jay at asis.com>
To: <RE-wrenches at topica.com>
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2006 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: tankless water heaters [RE-wrenches]



HI Bill,

Its why I do recommend the outdoor models, sure simplifies the install
especially for retrofits.
And when you figure out cost per foot for a new house, you can save a
bunch
putting it outside.

jay
On Dec 13, 2006, at 1:35 PM, Bill Loesch wrote:

>
> Hi Todd,
>
> Jay properly identified the common _installation_ errors. Just
> remember that
> the (probably) less than 40,000 BTU/h existing tank water heater is
> being
> replaced by a 117,000 BTU/h tankless water heater. That heat has to
> come
> from somewhere and must be disposed of properly. The existing 3
> inch tank
> venting will definately _not_ work. The gas supply for the "small"
> tankless
> needs to be sized properly. Please, please, please do not install
> one of the
> larger (170,000 and higher BTU/h) models (which are almost universally
> _power vented_) into the same flue as the furnace. Any power vented
> gas
> appliance needs its own _dedicated_ sealed exhaust constructed with
> "special
> gas vent" (sealed pipe made with stainless steel that has a very high
> resistance to corrosion).
>
> See www.gamanet.org and watch the video titled "Venting Done Right"
> for a
> more extensive explanation of differences in venting natural draft
> and power
> vented appliances.
>
> Take the time to
> 1) Read the instructions
> 2) Understand the instructions and
> 3) Follow the instructions
>
> If you do, you will be very pleased with the endless hot water,
> improved
> water heating costs, space savings and $300 tax credit for many of
> the units
> (regardless of manufacturer).
>
> If you are in a hard (or very hard) water area, you absolutely
> positively
> need to install service valves to allow simplified manual descaling
> of the
> heat exchanger. A more maintenance free installation would include
> a water
> softener. A water conditioner is a less expensive (and IMHO, less
> effective)
> solution to the scaling issue.
>
> Eliminating plumbing crossovers (if present) is also required for the
> tankless to work as designed.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Loesch
> Solar 1 - Saint Louis Solar
> 314 631 1094
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Cory, Mt. Shasta Energy Services"
> <toddcory at finestplanet.com>
> To: "Wrenches" <RE-wrenches at topica.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 6:48 PM
> Subject: tankless water heaters [RE-wrenches]
>
>
>>
>> Wrenches,
>>
>> I am working with a client who is looking over specs for tankless
>> water
>> heaters. I recently read (somewhere I cannot find the information
>> now...
>> of course) about a propane unit that used no AC power or pilot
>> light. I
>> believe if I read the article correctly, the unit had a small
>> generator
>> that operated off the flowing water to light the propane.
>>
>> Does this ring a bell with anyone? Is the best way to go? This is
>> for an
>> off grid customer so phantom loads are an issue. Pilot lights are
>> also
>> undesirable due to the fuel waste.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Todd
>> -- 
>>
>>
>>     Todd Cory
>>
>>
>>     KE6SXS
>>
>> *toddcory at finestplanet.com <mailto:toddcory at finestplanet.com>*
>>
>>
>>     Mt. Shasta Energy Services
>>
>>
>>   License C-10  #811428
>>
>>
>>   P.O. Box 689
>>
>>
>>   Mt. Shasta, CA. 96067
>>
>> *(530) 926-1079*
>>
>> * *
>>
>>
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