tankless water heaters [RE-wrenches]

[Jay Peltz, Peltz Power]

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HI Bill,

Its why I do recommend the outdoor models, sure simplifies the install
especially for retrofits.
And when you figure out cost per foot for a new house, you can save a  
bunch
putting it outside.

jay
On Dec 13, 2006, at 1:35 PM, Bill Loesch wrote:

>
> Hi Todd,
>
> Jay properly identified the common _installation_ errors. Just  
> remember that
> the (probably) less than 40,000 BTU/h existing tank water heater is  
> being
> replaced by a 117,000 BTU/h tankless water heater. That heat has to  
> come
> from somewhere and must be disposed of properly. The existing 3  
> inch tank
> venting will definately _not_ work. The gas supply for the "small"  
> tankless
> needs to be sized properly. Please, please, please do not install  
> one of the
> larger (170,000 and higher BTU/h) models (which are almost universally
> _power vented_) into the same flue as the furnace. Any power vented  
> gas
> appliance needs its own _dedicated_ sealed exhaust constructed with  
> "special
> gas vent" (sealed pipe made with stainless steel that has a very high
> resistance to corrosion).
>
> See www.gamanet.org and watch the video titled "Venting Done Right"  
> for a
> more extensive explanation of differences in venting natural draft  
> and power
> vented appliances.
>
> Take the time to
> 1) Read the instructions
> 2) Understand the instructions and
> 3) Follow the instructions
>
> If you do, you will be very pleased with the endless hot water,  
> improved
> water heating costs, space savings and $300 tax credit for many of  
> the units
> (regardless of manufacturer).
>
> If you are in a hard (or very hard) water area, you absolutely  
> positively
> need to install service valves to allow simplified manual descaling  
> of the
> heat exchanger. A more maintenance free installation would include  
> a water
> softener. A water conditioner is a less expensive (and IMHO, less  
> effective)
> solution to the scaling issue.
>
> Eliminating plumbing crossovers (if present) is also required for the
> tankless to work as designed.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill Loesch
> Solar 1 - Saint Louis Solar
> 314 631 1094
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Todd Cory, Mt. Shasta Energy Services"  
> <toddcory at finestplanet.com>
> To: "Wrenches" <RE-wrenches at topica.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 12, 2006 6:48 PM
> Subject: tankless water heaters [RE-wrenches]
>
>
>>
>> Wrenches,
>>
>> I am working with a client who is looking over specs for tankless  
>> water
>> heaters. I recently read (somewhere I cannot find the information  
>> now...
>> of course) about a propane unit that used no AC power or pilot  
>> light. I
>> believe if I read the article correctly, the unit had a small  
>> generator
>> that operated off the flowing water to light the propane.
>>
>> Does this ring a bell with anyone? Is the best way to go? This is  
>> for an
>> off grid customer so phantom loads are an issue. Pilot lights are  
>> also
>> undesirable due to the fuel waste.
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>> Todd
>> -- 
>>
>>
>>     Todd Cory
>>
>>
>>     KE6SXS
>>
>> *toddcory at finestplanet.com <mailto:toddcory at finestplanet.com>*
>>
>>
>>     Mt. Shasta Energy Services
>>
>>
>>   License C-10  #811428
>>
>>
>>   P.O. Box 689
>>
>>
>>   Mt. Shasta, CA. 96067
>>
>> *(530) 926-1079*
>>
>> * *
>>
>>
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>
>
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