Tile Roof Installations [RE-wrenches]

[Tom DeBates]

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Good day Peter,
  At ASES last Summer, Obadiah Bartholomy from SMUD (916-732-6835)gave a 
presentation on direct mounting  to tile and metal roof 
surfaces...including adhesive(!).
good luck,
Tom DeBates

info at asappower.com wrote:
> 
> Dear Wrenches,
> Wondering if there are alternatives to ProSolar Tile Trac systems.  Have
> enjoyed working with them on slab tile of sufficient thickness and have 
> been
> pleased with barrel tile as well.  However, working with some kiln-fired
> tile and it's very thin and very brittle, yet it's soft and responds 
> well to
> a 5/16" masonry bit penetration, just big enough for the post.  This is 
> a 5
> year old rooftop in inland SoCal with a 50 year warranty but with NLA 
> color,
> so would like to avoid using up the homeowner's pallet full of extra 
> tile
> even though it's there, but since it is a slightly different color.
> 
> Would like to hear of other tile roof flush-mounted racking methods in
> general.  Would also like to understand roofing warranties more and have
> actually never seen a written one and assume it's for leakage due to a 
> poor
> installation or for what?  Aren't these warranties from the roofing
> installer?  Or from the manufacturers for defective tile?  Certainly 
> it's
> not going to guarantee tile not breaking for 50 years?  Besides simply 
> the
> occasional need to walk on the roof what about large hail stones 
> breaking
> the tile?
> 
> To continue with my real question:  Rows of this tile do not lay 
> perfectly
> flat against the tops of the tiles in the row below and the thinness of 
> the
> tile makes for easy breakage of this type of S-tile no matter where you
> step.  Learned to step in about a 4"x 4" area just below the bottom 
> right
> edge of tile above the tile being stepped on.  That's ok for best 
> movement
> on the roof, but any sudden shift of weight or misstep still can break 
> the
> tile right across the middle of the tile, and sometimes down the middle 
> of
> the tile, depending on how that particular tile laps on the one below 
> the
> tile being stepped on.
> 
> Homeowner can deal with the tile trac on the ply/felt substrate and as
> typical, the 7/8" tall trac is placed just above the top edge of the 
> lower
> row, just enough to allow room for sliding nut for post.  Still, the 
> 7/8"
> tile trac slightly raises the tile receiving the penetration, but this
> should be acceptable and still sheds water nicely to the next tile 
> below.
> The gaps are no bigger than the inconsistency of the lap of these tiles
> generally.  Granted the tiles are "covered" by modules but homeowner is
> concerned about the life of the PL roof sealant around the post 
> underneath
> nut and washer.
> 
> Homeowner however, sees it all differently, stopped work, and tells me 
> of a
> roofing contractor that removes all tile while working on the roof, 
> places
> something like a Fast-jack or other post with flashing around it, 
> probably
> an Oatey boot or similar, puts other tiles back after getting done, and
> thus, no penetrated tile and no broken tile even though modules are not 
> up
> on rails yet.  Suppose you could do this as you go but suspect that this
> method would have some relatively ugly, oversized flashing of some sort
> replacing an entire 18" x 12" tile that would take some time to conform 
> to
> the tile surrounding the stancion?
> 
> Has anyone heard of this mounting system or any system that does not 
> require
> penetration of tile?  They also told me "you should never penetrate the 
> felt
> on a tile roof," which must be reflection of their confusion in 
> discussion
> with the builder who's contacting the roofing "consultant".   So now I'm 
> a
> bit curious about what's available and what's widely used and what works 
> and
> what's permittable.
> 
> Thanks,
> Peter
> ASAP POWER! - 1AU, Inc.
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