E-Meter [RE-wrenches]

[Bob-O Schultze, Electron Connection]

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Drake,
#5 could go there for sure, but it needs to be fused. OB sells a 1A 
CB for this purpose or you could fake it with an in-line 1-2A fuse 
and holder. Probably not UL, but it works fine. #4 is a voltage 
sensing input. The Link (I still call 'em E-meters too) uses that 
input in it's calculations rather than #5 which is carrying the meter 
amperage draw. Normally it wants to be right smack dab on the major 
positive battery terminal for best accuracy. Assuming good 
connections, the right inverter/battery cable size, and the cables 
aren't overly long, it shouldn't make enough difference to matter if 
it goes to the positive buss in the OB can as well. It too, BTW needs 
to be fused.
Cheers, bob-O

>The manual shows leads 4 & 5 connecting to the positive terminal in 
>the battery compartment. Is there any reason that those leads 
>couldn't go to the positive bar in the Outback box?
>
>Best,
>
>Drake

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