DCBB (was SW4024 with control problems) [RE-wrenches]

[Matt Tritt]

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You're not kidding. Actually this is the way I've attached the cables 
from day one with those things. I did notice that this particular block 
had steel screws, not aluminum. The replacement block has al ones, which 
do seem much smoother. The guy who maintainers the place had never 
bothered to check any of the connections other than battery terminals 
(in spite of a long lecture from me when the install was done). I did 
not use anti-seize, this after a discussion with another battery type 
who told me that using it just makes the screws unscrew faster. Perhaps 
he was mis-guided. ;-)

I do not like the bonding block being fastened directly against the back 
of the box without stand-offs, especially now.

Matt T

Kurt Nelson wrote:

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>And remember that with fine stranded cable, the correct tightening
>method is to tighten it, then loosen and retighten several times.  Each
>of the first few times you retighten you will notice that the wrench
>will turn just a bit further and when it doesn't tighten further, it's
>tight.
>
>Kurt
>
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>Kurt Nelson
>PO Box 309
>Cornucopia, WI 54827
>715-742-3406
>sunwise at cheqnet.net
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>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Allan Sindelar [mailto:allan at positiveenergysolar.com] 
>Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 1:40 PM
>To: RE-wrenches at topica.com
>Subject: DCBB (was SW4024 with control problems) [RE-wrenches]
>
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>We have learned from experience to put anti-sieze on all of the set
>screws
>in the DC bonding block. Otherwise, the set screws will often not
>tighten
>sufficiently when new, due to friction. This may have caused the initial
>overheating Matt saw. Over time, heat/cool cycling causes more
>loosening,
>which causes more heating, ad nauseum. Also, without anti-sieze or a
>similar
>thread lubricant, they can corrode in a few years to the point that they
>can
>freeze in place.
>Allan at Positive Energy
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Matt Tritt" <solarone at charter.net>
>I think I've traced all the problems back to a 4/0 cable
>connection (-) that managed to loosen-up over about 4 years. It wasn't
>so difficult to find the problem, seeing as how the DC bonding block got
>hot enough to fry some of the insulation off a controller lead connected
>to the same block. I am not a big fan of the
>bonding block arrangement in the Trace DC box for several reasons, not
>the least of which is it's deep location - way to one side, which can be
>a hassle in some installations.
>
>So, even if your problem is not the negative connection, I suggest
>re-torquing all the connections within the DC enclosure to original
>spec's as a preventative measure. But you probably already did that!
>
>Matt
>
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