DCBB (was SW4024 with control problems) [RE-wrenches]

Kurt Nelson sunwise at cheqnet.net
Wed Jul 6 22:21:20 PDT 2005


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And remember that with fine stranded cable, the correct tightening
method is to tighten it, then loosen and retighten several times.  Each
of the first few times you retighten you will notice that the wrench
will turn just a bit further and when it doesn't tighten further, it's
tight.

Kurt

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Kurt Nelson
PO Box 309
Cornucopia, WI 54827
715-742-3406
sunwise at cheqnet.net


-----Original Message-----
From: Allan Sindelar [mailto:allan at positiveenergysolar.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, July 06, 2005 1:40 PM
To: RE-wrenches at topica.com
Subject: DCBB (was SW4024 with control problems) [RE-wrenches]

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We have learned from experience to put anti-sieze on all of the set
screws
in the DC bonding block. Otherwise, the set screws will often not
tighten
sufficiently when new, due to friction. This may have caused the initial
overheating Matt saw. Over time, heat/cool cycling causes more
loosening,
which causes more heating, ad nauseum. Also, without anti-sieze or a
similar
thread lubricant, they can corrode in a few years to the point that they
can
freeze in place.
Allan at Positive Energy

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Matt Tritt" <solarone at charter.net>
I think I've traced all the problems back to a 4/0 cable
connection (-) that managed to loosen-up over about 4 years. It wasn't
so difficult to find the problem, seeing as how the DC bonding block got
hot enough to fry some of the insulation off a controller lead connected
to the same block. I am not a big fan of the
bonding block arrangement in the Trace DC box for several reasons, not
the least of which is it's deep location - way to one side, which can be
a hassle in some installations.

So, even if your problem is not the negative connection, I suggest
re-torquing all the connections within the DC enclosure to original
spec's as a preventative measure. But you probably already did that!

Matt

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