6" poles [RE-wrenches]

matthew tritt solarone at charter.net
Tue Apr 29 14:44:20 PDT 2003


Allan,

I solve the rebar problem like this: Using a gas torch, cut 3 X 3-sided
rectangles in the section of pipe that's to be in concrete. The un-cut side
of the rectangle is on the bottom end of each cut. Heat the un-cut section
of each rectangle with the torch, then bend the resulting tab away from the
pipe about 2" or enough to allow the entry of wet cement when filling the
hole. These tabs will prevent the pole from ever turning in the concrete and
also serve the same function as rebar. They also allow the pole to be filled
with cement, which rebar doesn't. I've been doing it this way for over 20
years and have yet to have a problem.

I always stagger the tabs equally around the pole.

Matt T
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allan Sindelar" <allan at positiveenergysolar.com>
To: "New wrenches posting" <RE-wrenches at topica.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 12:50 PM
Subject: 6" poles [RE-wrenches]


> Wrenches,
> Sometimes I come across something so obvious that I feel stupid for never
> having realized it. Maybe someone else is just as adept at overlooking the
> easy answer as I can be. Here's one:
>
> We prefer pole-top arrays where possible. We order in 6" Sch. 40 steel and
> weld rebar to it, and it's expensive and a hassle to deal with. Thanks to
> John Leibendorfer of UniRac for this:
>
> 1. 6" rigid conduit is Sch. 40 pipe, it's way cheaper, it's galvanized,
and
> the electrical wholesaler will deliver it for free. Weight is still 179
> lbs., so careful!
>
> 2. Don't bother with a fancy rebar cage, and for sure don't bother welding
a
> cage to the pipe, it's not necessary. I'll still make a 18" square of #4
> rebar to drop in around the pipe near the top, but that's a whole lot
easier
> than welding.
>
> Allan, recently enlightened at +E
>
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