12 VOLT controller [RE-wrenches]
Pat Redgate
solarpro at aol.com
Mon Oct 13 20:59:20 PDT 2003
In a message dated 10/13/2003 7:17:47 PM Pacific Standard Time,
allan at positiveenergysolar.com writes:
"The problem I see with the approach you have described is that it allows
the> PV pump to shut off at high storage tank temperature"
Preventing overheat problems is, has and ever shall be a problem. It
is best solved by proper sizing, orientation and tilt. This is the best
reason for elevating panels to a higher angle (to stop overheating, rather than to
be enhancing performance). Also, black chrome kills.
"I would rather see no high-limit shutoff, and rather a thermostatic
mixing valve to prevent overheating. How do you handle this?"
To set an upper limit or not to set an upper limit; that is the
question... What fails on a solar water heater first? It seems, much to my
surprise, to be the tank. The panels can take the heat, so can the copper tubing
and pump; but the tank goes into hyper-oxidation above 165F. Maybe your fluid
needs replacing more often, but it sure beats rolling out a new tank every five
to ten years. BTW, how does a thermostatic mixing valve prevent overheating
IN the tank? Tempering valves are required in our part of the world - they
prevent scalding water from entering the household. The guts of the valve need
periodic maintenance and most fail by mixing in too much cold water, thus
diminishing the solar contribution. But they do work well as hot water extenders
when they are new.
As far as the PRV is concerned... You do not need one (I know, code) if the
system is sized correctly. If you do use one, DO NOT install it anywhere near
the solar collector. If you must, put it in the loop downstream and vent it
to grade.
But, every SHW solution is site specific. I am lucky, with 95% of our
systems located within 75 miles of the coast and the BEST weather in the world, I
have very little to worry about.
Surfs up.
Patrick A. Redgate
AMECO
Long Beach, CA
(562) 595-9570
www.amecosolar.com
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