[RE-wrenches] Cutting rail

[Benn Kilburn]

I’ve been looking at picking up a portable bandsaw, likely Makita but a reciprocating saw has served me very well over the years. If you hold the edge of the cutting guard against the end-clamp you can get a nice uniform inch and a half or so of rail past the clamp. Using a circular saw leaves too much rail for my liking unless you Measure and cut the rail before laying down the last module. 
I prefer cutting blades with at least 14 TPI (teeth per inch). 
The cutting teeth will get gummed up with aluminum when it gets too hot so you have to check it at least after cutting each rail and pick out any gummed up spots with your linesman. 

I would Also recommend getting some of this…https://www.zoro.com/bio-circle-coolcut-lubricant-300g-solid-stick-pk12-53b013/i/G0934138/?REVIEW_DISPLAY_SNAPSHOT_TYPE=SIMPLE … And putting a bit on your blades when cutting. I always use this on metal sawblades and when drilling into metal especially using a Uni bit. 
Tell everyone on the crew to get them selves a small used tin and keep some of this handy. 
A tube of this should last years. 

Benn Kilburn
SkyFire Energy
780-906-7807

> On Jun 12, 2019, at 10:36 PM, frenergy <frenergy at psln.com> wrote:
> 
> Any suggestions for cutting rail with a Sawzall?  Many times at the end of a run of PVs there could be 5-6" of rail (in this case DPW P8).  I like to use a circular saw but sometimes I don't have enough clearance once the rail and panels are installed.  The sawzall works but I'm looking for a blade that doesn't load up with aluminum too fast and cuts without too much vibration.  Other ideas?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bill
> 
> Feather River Solar Electric
> Bill Battagin, Owner
> 4291 Nelson St.
> Taylorsville, CA 95983
> 530.284.7849
> CA Lic 874049
> www.frenergy.net
> 
> 
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