<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body style="overflow-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;">good point. <div>For GT OB systems I have removed the side screens for better air flow and I\u2019ve also taken the covers off and used external fans to cool them.</div><div><br></div><div>They just were not designed to run anywhere near rated capacity for long periods of time, they don\u2019t have enough air cooling.<br id="lineBreakAtBeginningOfMessage"><div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div>On May 12, 2025, at 10:41\u202fAM, Ray Walters via RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><div>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div><p>Is inverter 2 on top? The top inverter in an Outback dual stack
always runs hotter, because the heat from the bottom inverter is
adding to its own heat. I used to see that consistently cause
board failures on the top inverter more often, if the whole system
was running close to capacity.</p><p>Ray Walters <br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 5/12/2025 7:56 AM, Amos Post via
RE-wrenches wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite" cite="mid:5E30B5B8-C3F0-4EEA-8DAA-99D10497DB84@gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
UPDATE:
<div><br>
</div>
<div>So far so good and since replacing the fuse holder,
fuse #3 has not blown again.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>ANOTHER ISSUE:</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><b>Inverter 2 runs hotter than inverter 1.</b>
Reminder this is grid-tied system with 2-GVFX3648\u2019s in series
for 120/240V. The fan on inverter #2 had malfunctioned, but I
was able to replace it and get that going again. Even with the
replaced fan, inverter #2 is still running noticeably hotter.
My understanding is that both inverters in this system are
essentially \u201cMasters\u201d, since this is grid-tied. Shouldn\u2019t the
load/generation be split between the two and hence they run
equally as hot? I did check the stacking and they were both set
to \u201cMaster\u201d which is I think what they recommended for grid-tie.
I tried switching the ports on the Hub that they are plugged
into to see if that would change anything, but no change. I did
also noticed while I was there last week that while both
inverters had the solid yellow \u201cAC IN\u201d light on, inverter #2\u2019s
green \u201cInverter\u201d light was always on, while inverter #1\u2019s green
\u201cInverter\u201d seemed to come and go\u2026</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Any ideas?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks as always,</div>
<div>Amos</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
<div>
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<div><br>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>On Apr 15, 2025, at 8:40 AM, Amos Post <<a href="mailto:integrityenergy101@gmail.com" class="moz-txt-link-freetext" moz-do-not-send="true">integrityenergy101@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:</div>
<br class="Apple-interchange-newline">
<div>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;">Hi all,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I decided to start with the simple stuff.
While I don\u2019t have a string curve tester (I should
have one), yesterday I tested strings 1,2,3
individually under load. String 3 is the one that\u2019s
been blowing the fuse. I did not test strings 4-6
which are on a separate charge controller and
combiner. Here are the results:</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>String 1- 7.1A at 76V</div>
<div>String 2- 7.77Aat 79V</div>
<div>String 3-7.13A at 78.3V</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I did notice that the second charge
controller with strings 4-6 was running about 100watts
more (1800w vs 1700w). The conditions were clear blue
skies. I replaced the fuse holder and fuse. If it
blows again I\u2019ll try switching strings to see if it
follows\u2026</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks for your feedback and I\u2019ll keep
ya\u2019ll posted.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Amos</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
<div>
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<div><br>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div>On Apr 11, 2025, at 4:07 PM, Jerry
Shafer via RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" class="moz-txt-link-freetext" moz-do-not-send="true">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>>
wrote:</div>
<br class="Apple-interchange-newline">
<div><p dir="ltr">Wrenches, Amos, blowing of
a 15 amp fuse is not a ghost in the machine,
it is an actual issue no way around it,
shorted modules, shorted diodes, in most cases
it's a home run, way back when USE-2 white
wure was failing and would crack and break off
mostly this would result in a GFI trip. The
fuse is blowing because of over current and a
single string of your vintage will max out at
far less than 10 amps but the other two
strings will back feed this fuse with close to
20 then pop.<br>
Sharp had module failures resulting in cell
shorts, look very close there. I have
inspected arrays with extreme exposure
differences, this will effect performance but
should not pop a fuse. Do you have a module
string curve tester, this very well may show
an issue of the string but eyes on the array
is required to located the cause.<br>
I have seen nails through wires, conduit,
racking in contact with the back of the module
but this will trip the GFI breaker not the
string fuse.<br>
Fun times. </p>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote gmail_quote_container">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Apr
11, 2025, 12:49\u202fPM david quattro via
RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" class="moz-txt-link-freetext" moz-do-not-send="true">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="auto">One time I had
similar, but different problem: 1 Amp
ground fault fuse consistently blowing,
sometimes after 1 day sometimes after
weeks/months. I tried everything -
replaced home runs, checked VOC, VMP,
swapped DC input into a different
inverter, etc. it kept coming back to this
one string. I checked every module VOC,
ISC, every connection, no pinched wires,
no discernible problem, but fuse blowing.</div>
<div dir="auto"> Luckily it was a
medium size commercial job (on a fire
station) so I was able to scatter all the
modules of this suspect string all over
the roof, and carefully track where I had
put them. That\u2019s when the problem went
away and never came back..\U0001f602</div>
<div dir="auto"> Best I could
figure was a slight manufacturing error
that had a compounding/cumulative effect.
So once I got those consecutive serial
numbers away from each other no more
problem. Either that or the fire chief was
fucking with me and he was burning out the
fuses, which I doubt </div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir="auto"><br>
</div>
<div><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On
Fri, Apr 11, 2025 at 8:05\u202fAM Mac Lewis
via RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer" class="moz-txt-link-freetext" moz-do-not-send="true">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204)">
<div dir="ltr">Hello Amos,<br>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Have you checked for
voltage imbalance for each
string? If you have a bad diode,
that string may run low on voltage
and be trying to send current
toward the weak string (this is
the reason you have these
breakers). I'd run each string
independently and see what Vmp
is. If you are missing some
voltage that may be a clue. You
can also independently clamp each
string during operation.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I like IR cameras for
this type of thing. It may just
be a bad connection, heat build
up, fuse holder issue.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Let us know what you
find out</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On
Fri, Apr 11, 2025 at 8:07\u202fAM Amos
Post via RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer" class="moz-txt-link-freetext" moz-do-not-send="true">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left-width:1px;border-left-style:solid;padding-left:1ex;border-left-color:rgb(204,204,204)">
<div>Hi Wrenches,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I have a bit of a
puzzler that I\u2019m trying to get
sorted out. I\u2019ve been
servicing a Grid-Tied Battery
Backup system that\u2019s about
17-18 years old. The system
comprises of 2-GVFX3648s in
series, with 2-MX60(at least I
think they are 60s) CC\u2019s.
Each CC has 3 strings of 3
tied to it, and each string
has a 15A in-line 600V fuse.
The modules are I believe are
like 230/240Watt 60 cell
modules (sorry I don\u2019t have
pictures/specifics). We
replaced the flooded batteries
with AGMs about a year and a
half ago. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The situation is
one of the 15A string fuses
keeps blowing. It\u2019s now
happened 3 times and its the
same fuse every time. First
we just replaced the fuse and
under the surge/lightning
assumption. Fuse blew again.
Then I thought I found the
culprit. The #6 PV output
from the combiner to the PV
input breaker for the CC was a
bit darkened and very warm to
the touch when I replaced the
fuse the first time. So I
though maybe it was a loose
connection on that lug and
that caused everything to heat
up and eventually blow the
fuse. I cut and stripped the
wire back and cleaned the lug
and re-seated the wire in the
lug. Fuse blew again within a
few months time. I then
checked the Junction box on
the roof where the USE-2 wire
connects to THHN, and did a
visual inspection of all the
wiring on the roof. All of
the Jbox connections and
everything on the roof
\u201clooked\u201d ok. I have also
check all of the connections
inside the Outback DC load
center, and they look ok.
Fuse replaced 3rd time and
then it blew again. </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Before I take all
of the panels off the rack,
check panels, re-check string
wiring on the roof, is there
anything else I should be
checking? Seems like that
warm wire in the Combiner box
is telling me something but I
can\u2019t figure out what...I
believe this is a new problem
in the last 2-3 years but we
are not 100% sure when the
problem first came up\u2026</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>As always, thanks
for your help/ suggestions!</div>
<div>Amos</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
<div>
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<pre wrap="" class="moz-quote-pre">_______________________________________________
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_______________________________________________<br>List sponsored by Redwood Alliance<br><br>Pay optional member dues here: http://re-wrenches.org<br><br>List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org<br><br>Change listserver email address & settings:<br>http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org<br><br>There are two list archives for searching. When one doesn't work, try the other:<br>https://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/<br>http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org<br><br>List rules & etiquette:<br>http://www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm<br><br>Check out or update participant bios:<br>http://www.members.re-wrenches.org<br><br></div></blockquote></div><br></div></body></html>