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</head><body text="#000000">I've been using two gutters with multiple
12KW Sol-Arks Installs - one 4x4" that I mount immediately under the AC
KOs using forward biased offset nipples (it's front face is just abouut
1/2" in front of front plane of Sol-Arks) and then a 6x6" set back and
down and reached with 4" nipples extending offset nipples so that I get
an AC and DC gutter - not sure how others are dealing with need to
separate AC and DC. <br>
<br>
For the PV inputs on 12Kws I do two additional 1" KOs - one through the
vertical mid-plate below the DC terminations and then one down through
the bottom just to the rear of that plate. That way using offsets I can
reach the 6" DC gutter with both the Battery DC and the PV DC in one
gutter. I then use an LL to get the AC gutter back to the wall at one
end. Can send pics offlist if you are interested.<br>
<br>
I spoke to Sol-Ark a few times about the need to give us more room and
better KOs - putting the DCs in one plane and the ACS in another -
giving us 2" KOs for battery cables instead of forcing each cable
through it's own 1" etc. Unfortunately didn't get that message through
before they had already designed the 15 KW.<br>
<br>
We have also just added KOs to the left side of the unit to bring in the
PV inputs when that is more convenient.<br>
<br>
No better tool than our hydraulic KO punch!<br>
<br>
Hope that helps ~<br>
<br>
Jeff<br>
<br>
<span>~~~~~~~~~~~<br>
</span>
<div class="moz-signature">
<span>Jeff Clearwater</span><span><span></span><br>
<img src="cid:part1.1A866E3B.2E874467@villagepowerdesign.com"
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<span><span><a href="http://www.villagepowerdesign.com">www.villagepowerdesign.com</a></span><br>
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<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<span>
</span><br>
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moz-do-not-send="true">Michael Morningstar via RE-wrenches</a></div> <div
style="display:inline-block;white-space:nowrap;vertical-align:middle;width:48%;text-align:
right;"> <font color="#909AA4"><span style="padding-left:6px">May
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dir="ltr">We cut out the bottom plate entirely with a die grinder/cut
off wheel and then wrap the raw edge with vinyl "edge wrap" and set the
inverters on top of 10 x 10 x whatever gutters. The layout and sizes of
Sol-Arks knock-outs is screwy. Just need a bonding jumper between both
enclosures. This is common practice in the industrial world when dealing
with large VFDs and such.<div><br></div></div><br><br clear="all"><div><br></div>--
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<p style="margin:0px;font:18px Helvetica">Michael Morningstar</p><p
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style="margin:0px;font:18px Helvetica">Morningstar Electric</p><p
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style="margin:0px;font:18px Helvetica">Mount Shasta, CA 96067</p><p
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dir="ltr">Hi Chris,</div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">Can\u2019t
you increase the size of the KO\u2019s?</div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div
dir="ltr">Jay</div><div dir="ltr"><br></div>
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style="display:inline-block;white-space:nowrap;vertical-align:middle;width:48%;text-align:
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7, 2022 at 6:16 PM</span></font></div> </div></div>
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dir="auto">Jason,</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">I think
I agree with your interpretation of the wiring diagram. My hesitation
is, with a 1-1/4\u201d KO for AC inputs, only choice seems to be a >24\u201d
stub conduit for 2/0 conductores to a fused disconnect. Not a fun pipe
to bend\u2026and extra BOS seems like a less than ideal solution. </div><div
dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Is this your conclusion as well? </div><div><br></div>--
<br><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature"
data-smartmail="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr"><div
dir="ltr"><div>Chris Sparadeo</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>C_802-369-4458</div><div>H_802-728-3059</div></div></div></div></div></div>
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