<div dir="ltr">Bob, <div>This is a very interesting idea to have two separate battery banks in series. I find it odd though that this particular motor's datasheet calls for 9 12V batteries. I suppose that I could have one charge controller set for 48V and the other set for 60V. Although this will also pose the problem of trying to run the house loads - if I have two 48V inverters that still leaves one battery that will get loaded less than all the others.</div><div><br></div><div>And it seems that everyone else is pointing to the fact that it seems important to keep the neutral and ground internally separated in the inverter in a boat, so I'll stick to marine inverters for this one.</div><div>Cheers,</div><div>Dave</div><div><br></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Jun 30, 2021 at 5:30 PM <a href="mailto:bob@midnitesolar.com">bob@midnitesolar.com</a> <<a href="mailto:bob@midnitesolar.com">bob@midnitesolar.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div>
<br>
If you can't find a single compatible charger, what also works it to
use 2 (two) separate<br>
<br>
MPPT charge controllers each with a separate PV array inputs and
connect each CC's<br>
battery to half of the battery bank. This has worked fine for both
OB and MNS controllers<br>
in past years and should with others as well I would imagine. Set
each for slightly higher<br>
voltage than 48V of course.<br>
<br>
One thing you may not be able to do might be connecting the chassis
grounds together<br>
depending on how those grounds are tied to the battery negative and
positive lines internally.<br>
<br>
Sometimes the internal SPD MOVs can get in the way if their voltage
isn't high enough to handle<br>
the two PV voltages that are seen as in series from the MOV's
standpoint. But those MOVs are<br>
usually sized voltage wise to handle much higher voltage than, say,
300V which would he the maximum<br>
voltage both CC's would see for 150V max input controllers.<br>
<br>
You also cannot use the same remote controllers if they are not
isolated from battery minus except for<br>
the controller that is on the bottom side of the battery bank.<br>
<br>
I have seen this method used many times now for 120V battery banks
and also for higher voltage<br>
electric boats. There is quite a bit of this kind of wiring out
there as I remember.<br>
<br>
There are some other standards for marine inverters like, UL 458
marine supplement and ABYC ratings.<br>
<br>
This includes neutral ground switching like in mobile apps too IIRC.<br>
<br>
Of course, just adding the word "marine" has to increase the price
not matter what the product is.<br>
\U0001f601<br>
<br>
boB<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 6/30/2021 12:50 PM, Dave Tedeyan
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">Hi All,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I am going to be working with someone who plans to
completely electrify a boat. The electric motor is meant to
run on nine 12V batteries, or 108V. The motor manufacturer
recommends a charger that can run on 120V or 240V. But has
anyone seen a charger that can take solar power and directly
charge a battery bank of 108V? The alternative that I see here
is to have two separate battery banks, one for the motor, and
one for house loads. Then we would have the solar charge a 48V
battery bank, and then use an inverter to charge the 108V
battery bank. It seems inefficient, although that may be the
only choice.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>A separate but related question: what is special about a
marine inverter? If there is a 5kw charger for the battery
bank, we will need a large inverter to handle this plus
other AC loads, and I am not sure if there are "marine"
inverters this large. And so other than concerns about getting
wet, is there harm to putting a Radian, or a Sol-Ark on a
boat?</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Cheers,</div>
<div>Dave</div>
<div><br>
</div>
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