<div dir="ltr">Great discussion, all.  Thank you.<div><br></div><div>For 1000V (where we also tend to favor MC-style connectors), we are connecting PVWire to 1000V-rated XHHW-2 (which is not PVC), and always inside a 3R box.  </div><div><br></div><div>Blake</div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 9:00 AM Ray &lt;<a href="mailto:ray@solarray.com" target="_blank">ray@solarray.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
  
    
  
  <div>
    <p>I think the biggest issue with poor connections on the Polaris
      type blocks is not stripping enough insulation off the wire. They
      need much more stripped off than other types of connectors.  With
      too much insulation remaining, the screw tightens on the
      insulation, and the electrical connection is just some loose
      copper tickling the inside of the barrel.  You wouldn&#39;t notice it
      at first with testing, but it would definitely start to over heat
      over time.  Might catch it with a FLIR though.  <br>
    </p>
    <p>What other connectors are 1000 v rated?  This seems like more an
      issue of having the manufacturer&#39;s retest to 1000v.  I can&#39;t
      imagine those blocks not being able to handle 1000v, but.....  <br>
    </p>
    <pre cols="72">Ray Walters
Remote Solar
303 505-8760</pre>
    <div>On 4/28/21 11:27 AM, Corey Shalanski
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite">
      
      <div dir="ltr">
        <div>Chris&#39;s reminder is a good one\u2014the 600V rating of most
          insulated &quot;multi-tap&quot; connectors pretty much limits their use
          to residential systems. I would also keep in mind that those
          connectors generally have a torque spec. I&#39;ve definitely seen
          examples of meltdowns caused by poor terminations - either the
          compression screw isn&#39;t torqued properly or the conductor
          isn&#39;t fully inserted. To help eliminate the latter case, we
          used to favor the Burndy models (e.g., <a href="https://www.hubbell.com/burndy/en/Products/Power-Utilities/Connectors/Lugs-Terminals/Bolted/Vinyl-Insulated/BIT4/p/2021315" target="_blank">BIT4</a>) because they had a
          transparent case; I see that Polaris also now offers
          transparent models (e.g., <a href="http://www.nsiindustries.com/catalog/nsiproducts/polaris-mechanical-connectors/polaris-vision-tap/it-4c" target="_blank">IT-4C</a>).</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>--</div>
        <div>Corey Shalanski</div>
        <div>Jah Light Solar</div>
        <div>Portland, Jamaica</div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>On Wed, Apr 28, 2021 at 7:38 AM Chris Sparadeo &lt;<a href="mailto:sparadeo.chris@gmail.com" target="_blank">sparadeo.chris@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:</div>
        <div>
          <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Keep in mind that Wagos,
            Polaris lugs, Multi-tap Burndy lugs are rated for 600V. I
            can see this being a possible use for MC4 connectors in a
            higher voltage splice scenario, because of their 1000V/1500V
            ratings.</blockquote>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset></fieldset>
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