<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div dir="ltr"></div><div dir="ltr">Hi Benn,</div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">I bought a makita band saw some years ago, I can\u2019t believe how it changed my use of metal. Cutting metal is so easy, quiet and clean, no vibration. Less burrs than sawzall too. </div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">As to the original question, If you want to leave a short tail then the band saw works fine for that. If you want flush, then before the last module goes down, measure and cut rail, then install the module. </div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">Jay</div><div dir="ltr"><br>On Jun 13, 2019, at 5:47 AM, Benn Kilburn <<a href="mailto:benn@skyfireenergy.com">benn@skyfireenergy.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">I\u2019ve been looking at picking up a portable bandsaw, likely Makita but a reciprocating saw has served me very well over the years. If you hold the edge of the cutting guard against the end-clamp you can get a nice uniform inch and a half or so of rail past the clamp. Using a circular saw leaves too much rail for my liking unless you Measure and cut the rail before laying down the last module. <div>I prefer cutting blades with at least 14 TPI (teeth per inch). <div>The cutting teeth will get gummed up with aluminum when it gets too hot so you have to check it at least after cutting each rail and pick out any gummed up spots with your linesman. </div><div><br></div><div>I would Also recommend getting some of this\u2026<a href="https://www.zoro.com/bio-circle-coolcut-lubricant-300g-solid-stick-pk12-53b013/i/G0934138/?REVIEW_DISPLAY_SNAPSHOT_TYPE=SIMPLE">https://www.zoro.com/bio-circle-coolcut-lubricant-300g-solid-stick-pk12-53b013/i/G0934138/?REVIEW_DISPLAY_SNAPSHOT_TYPE=SIMPLE</a> \u2026 And putting a bit on your blades when cutting. I always use this on metal sawblades and when drilling into metal especially using a Uni bit. </div><div>Tell everyone on the crew to get them selves a small used tin and keep some of this handy. </div><div>A tube of this should last years. <br><br><div id="AppleMailSignature" dir="ltr">Benn Kilburn<div>SkyFire Energy</div><div>780-906-7807</div></div><div dir="ltr"><br>On Jun 12, 2019, at 10:36 PM, frenergy <<a href="mailto:frenergy@psln.com">frenergy@psln.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><span>Any suggestions for cutting rail with a Sawzall? Many times at the end of a run of PVs there could be 5-6" of rail (in this case DPW P8). I like to use a circular saw but sometimes I don't have enough clearance once the rail and panels are installed. The sawzall works but I'm looking for a blade that doesn't load up with aluminum too fast and cuts without too much vibration. Other ideas?</span><br><span></span><br><span>Thanks,</span><br><span></span><br><span>Bill</span><br><span></span><br><span>Feather River Solar Electric</span><br><span>Bill Battagin, Owner</span><br><span>4291 Nelson St.</span><br><span>Taylorsville, CA 95983</span><br><span>530.284.7849</span><br><span>CA Lic 874049</span><br><span><a href="http://www.frenergy.net">www.frenergy.net</a></span><br><span></span><br></div></blockquote></div></div></div></blockquote><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><span></span><br></div></blockquote></body></html>