<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div></div><div>Friends:</div><div><br></div><div>I used to buy Trojans. My vendor told me about 3 years ago that Trojan had been acquired and the chemistry in the plates had changed. Later they denied making that statement.</div><div><br></div><div> I had a set of L16s vastly underperform. Trojan suggest a bulk/absorption voltage higher than any other manufacturer, a value hard to achieve and maintain in a small off grid system. I replaced them with US Battery and system performance improved. </div><div><br></div><div>Due to the decline in quality I stopped using Trojan. Due to the varying stories, I stopped using Battery Systems. We prefer the MK/Deka brand. </div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>William</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div>On Sep 12, 2018, at 11:33 AM, Ray <<a href="mailto:ray@solarray.com">ray@solarray.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div>
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<p>Unfortunately I'm seeing premature failures of the 2 v models
even more. You have paralleled cells in each battery, and it can
be difficult to even identify the failures. I found the infared
camera to be invaluable, as you can see the shorted cell clearly
in a thermal image.<br>
</p>
<pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">Ray Walters
Remote Solar
303 505-8760</pre>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/12/18 9:53 AM, Drake wrote:<br>
</div>
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I agree with the comments that followed on this thread, and would
also
like to add that Trojan L-16 batteries have a high rate of
premature
failure. Possibly the 2 V cells are better, but the 6 V cells seem
very
prone to dying early. Trojan batteries were robust in past
decades, but
seem exceedingly fragile now. <br>
<br>
At 08:44 PM 9/11/2018, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote type="cite" class="cite" cite="">Hello wrenches,<br>
<br>
I inspected a system that another company had installed. It
had
single string of 12 x Trojan L16RE-2V batteries about 2 years
old.Â
They had experienced a battery melt-down. It looks as though
the
meltdown had occurred internally, not from a bad connection.<br>
<br>
The system was dual stack Outback VFXR-3524A inverters (to be
precise one
was a sealed unit). The set-points were as follows:<br>
Absorb Voltage was 29.8V<br>
Absorb Time was 6.0 hours<br>
Float Voltage was 27.0V<br>
Rebulk Voltage was 27.0V<br>
End Amps was 0A<br>
<br>
These settings extended similarly to 2 x FM80 charge
controllers.<br>
<br>
I was able to jumper the melted battery and get her power in 15
minutes. Her installer had left her without power for 2
weeks. My clients will kill me if that happened!<br>
<br>
Anyway, I believe these set-points are way out of whack and too
aggressive. The voltage is OK (Trojan recommends ~29.6V for
this)
but the Absorb time seems way too long, Rebulk is too high and
end amps
isn't helping. However, Im not finding a definitive article
from
Trojan that describes typical Absorb times or even how to adjust
towards
a good Absorb Time, based on specific gravity measurements or
amperage
absorption.  <br>
<br>
My diagnosis is that these batteries have been cooked over the
past 2
years. In the electrolyte, there is noticeable
"floaties". The client said that the original installer
had accused her of not using distilled water, but I don't
believe that
would cause her symptoms. I believe the floaties are plate
material.<br>
<br>
I'd be interested in wrenches opinions familiar with these
batteries if
these are appropriate settings for a low energy user. I will
attempt to get through to Trojan as well.<br>
<br>
Thanks in advance<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
-- <br>
<br>
<font color="#305A78"><br>
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<br>
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