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    <p>I'm sure part of the problem is no load current circulation, but
      much of the problem can be seen with a clamp on meter while
      charging.  I've seen parallel strings pulling 10 amps on one
      string and 1 amp on the far end.  Not subtle at all, and very easy
      to understand why it would lead to unequal battery charging.  Let
      us know William what you find out with your extra shunts; we
      always appreciate your keen mind and desire to get to the root of
      the problem in a no nonsense manner.  I think resistance checks of
      the batteries and arranging the batteries into strings of equal
      resistance might help too, but yes, less parallel strings is
      better.<br>
    </p>
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">Ray Walters
Remote Solar
303 505-8760</pre>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 7/18/18 7:33 PM, William Miller
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:56682f1b143bf93ff659080ddad8fe11@mail.gmail.com">
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      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Colleagues:</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d"> </span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">I
            believe that circulating currents in multi-string battery
            installations are a major cause of premature failure of such
            a system.  I think it is important to monitor these
            currents.  Most telling would be checking these currents in
            an at-rest scenario.  It would be helpful to have a baseline
            at install and then check periodically. </span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d"> </span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">Measuring
            these currents with any type of DC clamp-on meter can be
            inaccurate at best.  In a conversation with Steve Higgins at
            a recent trade show I came up with this idea that may have
            some merit:  If an install has more than one string of
            batteries, install an appropriately sized shunt in the
            negative lead of each string.  At any later date you can
            apply any decent voltmeter with a millivolt scale and check
            for battery string imbalance with some degree of accuracy. 
            Shunts are cheap and readily available and if you avoid the
            brand that Outback uses in the Radian GSLC cabinets, they
            are relatively rugged.</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d"> </span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">We
            will be trying this in any future install with multiple
            strings, although we avoid this if at all possible.</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d"> </span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d">William
            Miller</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d"> </span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:black"><img
              id="Picture_x0020_1"
              src="cid:part1.DA8304E8.2256206C@solarray.com"
              alt="Gradient Cap_mini" class="" width="80" height="35"><br>
            Lic 773985<br>
            <a href="http://www.millersolar.com/" moz-do-not-send="true"><span
                style="color:blue">millersolar.com</span></a><br>
            805-438-5600</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-family:&quot;Arial&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;;color:#1f497d"> </span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;">From:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:&quot;Tahoma&quot;,&quot;sans-serif&quot;">
            RE-wrenches [mailto:<a
              href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org"
              moz-do-not-send="true">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>]
            <b>On Behalf Of </b>John Blittersdorf<br>
            <b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, July 18, 2018 6:24 PM<br>
            <b>To:</b> RE-wrenches<br>
            <b>Subject:</b> Re: [RE-wrenches] Electrolyte Dilution vs
            Voltage</span></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
        <div>
          <p class="MsoNormal">Mac,</p>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal">  I was about to ditto Ray with his
              more common than I would like scenario of battery death
              when I saw your mention of the 2nd string not connected. 
              It is always nice to see</p>
          </div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal">a solution that is simple and should
              have been considered, but wasn't. The assumption with
              battery issues usually is that they are actually hooked
              up!  I often thought that it would be worth the money to
              supply a cheap AC/DC clamp meter with every installation
              so that a phone consultation could quickly determine if
              the strings were unbalanced and what might be the reason. 
              Bad cells and bad connection  will usually show up in a
              current check and then a quick voltage check of each
              battery with a load on the system will show the culprit if
              a bad cell and corrosion present might find the bad
              connection.  I use Interstate L16's most of the time and
              find that the life is typically 6 years.  I used to call
              them a 7 to 10 year battery but kept racheting back the
              claim until I now call them a 5 to 7 year battery with
              more if properly maintained.  I have seen 10 years but it
              is rare. </p>
          </div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal"> </p>
          </div>
          <div>
            <p class="MsoNormal">John Blittersdorf</p>
          </div>
        </div>
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      <br>
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</pre>
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