<div dir="auto">Since Surrette was mentioned, even if you used the house loads and monitored the load current on the batteries with a DC current clamp... That would work for us... there is a webinar on the procedure on our YouTube channel. <div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto"><br></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Aug 6, 2017 5:40 PM, "Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar" <<a href="mailto:offgridsolar@sti.net">offgridsolar@sti.net</a>> wrote:<br type="attribution"><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">This is a bare bones but easy method. I am not sure Trojan would approve.<br>
You need a working bank and an inverter. A variac is used to set the AC<br>
voltage on an electric heater. A clamp-on DC ammeter is used to set the<br>
variac for the exact specified DC current (25A).<br>
A descent Variac is not that expensive and this set-up did work for<br>
Surrette, at one time. Interested to hear what is better and easier!<br>
<br>
Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar<br>
"we go where powerlines don't"<br>
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<br>
> Esteemed Wrenches; My customer's saga of failing Trojan LC-16s continues,<br>
> unfortunately. It's 8 Trojan L-16 P AC in series/parallel for a 24v bank I<br>
> think I have strong warranty claim on at least one battery. Trojan's<br>
> warranty claim form requires a series of tests, including using a load<br>
> tester "approved" by Trojan (whatever that means). to put a load of 25<br>
> amps<br>
> on each battery and time down to 1.75 volts per cell, specific gravity<br>
> checks, etc.<br>
><br>
> This situation is worth purchasing a load tester I think. I'd like one<br>
> that<br>
> can do 2v, 6v and 12v batteries. Searching online, 6/12v seems common, not<br>
> seeing anything that can do 2v other than the Fluke BT series, which is<br>
> way<br>
> out of my off-grid price range. And I'm not seeing an automotive variety<br>
> where you can set the load amperage.<br>
><br>
> Anyone have product advice for something that they use and like? Any help<br>
> appreciated.<br>
><br>
> DAN<br>
><br>
> PS---backgrounder and images.......................<br>
><br>
> Numbering the batteries 1-2-3-4 left to right:<br>
><br>
> ~Battery #2 was installed as a replacement only one month ago (July 2017)<br>
> and has a late 2016 date code. The 2 hot cells have such low Specific<br>
> Gravity that they don't register on the hydrometer or refractometer.<br>
><br>
> ~Battery #3 was installed as a replacement in mid 2016. I found the cause<br>
> of the problem that killed the original battery (the entire bank was<br>
> installed 2014), an incredibly poorly crimped interconnect cable from<br>
> AltEdirect (I posted here about it then). They offered to replace the<br>
> cable<br>
> (thanks, folks) but it's of more value to me in teaching my hands-on solar<br>
> college classes.<br>
><br>
> ~Battery #3 has a 2013 date code, implying to me that it sat on the self<br>
> for almost 3 years before the distributor dumped it on me as a one-off.<br>
> Next time, I will demand the same date code on each battery.<br>
><br>
> ~Battery #1 has NO date code. First time I've seen that.<br>
><br>
> ~In any case -- all the problems seem to be on only the outer parallel<br>
> string. So the customer approved a complete re-cable, and I'm going to<br>
> build them all myself after the expensive AltE cable fail.<br>
><br>
><br>
> Dan Fink<br>
> Professor of Solar Energy Technology, Ecotech Institute<br>
> IREC Certified Instructorâ\u201e˘ for:<br>
> ~ PV Installation Professional<br>
> ~ Small Wind Installer<br>
> Executive Director, Buckville Energy<br>
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Dave Angelini Offgrid Solar<br>
"we go where powerlines don't"<br>
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