<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div>Thanks for the advice. Good points on the warranty of the roofing material, never crossed my mind...</div><div><br></div><div>I have all the confidence I can cut the roof to flash (3 generation carpenter before I became an electrician). What is the process for removing a shingle? I'm guessing the shingles interlock where the overlap.</div><div><br></div><div>Jesse <br><br>Sent from my iPhone</div><div><br>On Mar 21, 2013, at 3:37 PM, Jason Szumlanski <<a href="mailto:jason@fafcosolar.com">jason@fafcosolar.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type="cite"><div><div dir="ltr">Tin snips does the trick. I have a guy with 20+ years of roof experience that's a craftsman with snips. It's easy to butcher it if you let a junior guy do it.<br><br><div id="WISESTAMP_SIG_gmail_session">
<div style="font-size:13px;font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif"><div style="margin:0 0 8px 0"><p style="margin:0"><span style="color:#808080"><strong>Jason Szumlanski</strong><em> </em></span></p><p style="margin:0">
<span style="color:#808080"><em>Fafco Solar</em></span><span style="color:gray;font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:80%"> </span><br></p></div></div></div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">
On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Ray Walters <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:ray@solarray.com" target="_blank">ray@solarray.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<div>How is this roof type for flashing? Do
you just cut it with a tin snips? My project only entails
replacing an unflashed conduit penetration with a Soladeck, so I'm
hoping it won't be too bad.<div class="im"><br>
<pre cols="72">R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
<a href="tel:303%20505-8760" value="+13035058760" target="_blank">303 505-8760</a></pre></div><div><div class="h5">
On 3/21/2013 8:58 AM, Jason Szumlanski wrote:<br>
</div></div></div><div><div class="h5">
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">We've used the standoff and boot method
successfully. It dictates where you put your rows to some
extent, but it's not too bad. There is definitely a hefty
up-charge on this roof type. It adds quite a bit of labor and
material.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>
<div style="font-size:13px;font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
<div style="margin:0 0 8px 0">
<p style="margin:0"><span style="color:#808080"><strong>Jason
Szumlanski</strong><em> </em></span></p>
<p style="margin:0"><span style="color:#808080"><em>Fafco
Solar<br>
</em></span><br>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 7:52 AM, Will
White <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:William.White@realgoods.com" target="_blank">William.White@realgoods.com</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">We've done
a couple of installs on metal shingle roofs and we used the
Unirac stand offs with the Oatey boots. We had the
standoffs and flashing installed by the roofer so it
wouldn't void the roof warranty. It cost about $1500 extra
but we thought it was worth if in case of a leak.<br>
<br>
Thanks,<br>
Will<br>
<br>
<br>
__________________________________________________________________________________________<br>
Will White<br>
Regional Field Operations Manager - New England<br>
<br>
Real Goods Solar<br>
64 Main St.<br>
Montpelier, VT 05602<br>
Tel: <a href="tel:%28802%29%20223-7804" value="+18022237804" target="_blank">(802)
223-7804</a><br>
Cell: <a href="tel:%28802%29%20234-3167" value="+18022343167" target="_blank">(802)
234-3167</a><br>
<a href="http://www.realgoodssolar.com" target="_blank">www.realgoodssolar.com</a><br>
<div>
<div><br>
<br>
<br>
-----Original Message-----<br>
From: <a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>
[mailto:<a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>]
On Behalf Of Jesse Dahl<br>
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 11:33 PM<br>
To: Wrenches<br>
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Metal shingles<br>
<br>
Hello,<br>
<br>
I looked at a site today and the roofing was a brand of
metal shingle. This was just a quick drive by and check
out the site so I don't have access to the brand or
method of attachment.<br>
<br>
It still got me thinking, what are people doing for
attachments to roofing like this? 6/12 pitch, and from
the photos the client sent me, the structure is 2"X6"
truss running N-S, with 1"x4" strapping every 4' running
E-W along with 5/8" OSB on top of the strapping. The
trusses look to be on 4' centers (just judging by the
photo).<br>
<br>
The only thing I can think of is EJOT type fasteners
through the shingle into the truss. The shingles would
crush a little bit, but the OSB would support it pretty
well. Otherwise removing the shingles where the feet
would go and then.....<br>
<br>
As always thanks for all the help.<br>
<br>
Jesse<br>
<br>
Sent from my iPhone<br>
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