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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Just got back from our project.&nbsp; Yes
      the the shingles interlock, so its hard to slide the flashing up
      under.&nbsp; I used 1/16" cut off wheel in the grinder, to cut the
      lines for the Soladeck.&nbsp; It came out pretty good, but we had a bit
      of trouble with the interlock grove underneath causing the
      flashing to ride up a little high.&nbsp; <br>
      <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer, 
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760</pre>
      On 3/21/2013 4:42 PM, Jesse Dahl wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:1C0E7BC3-4C40-42DB-AB38-2034630FEC6F@gmail.com"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
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      <div>Thanks for the advice. Good points on the warranty of the
        roofing material, never crossed my mind...</div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div>I have all the confidence I can cut the roof to flash (3
        generation carpenter before I became an electrician). What is
        the process for removing a shingle? I'm guessing the shingles
        interlock where the overlap.</div>
      <div><br>
      </div>
      <div>Jesse&nbsp;<br>
        <br>
        Sent from my iPhone</div>
      <div><br>
        On Mar 21, 2013, at 3:37 PM, Jason Szumlanski &lt;<a
          moz-do-not-send="true" href="mailto:jason@fafcosolar.com">jason@fafcosolar.com</a>&gt;
        wrote:<br>
        <br>
      </div>
      <blockquote type="cite">
        <div>
          <div dir="ltr">Tin snips does the trick. I have a guy with 20+
            years of roof experience that's a craftsman with snips. It's
            easy to butcher it if you let a junior guy do it.<br>
            <br>
            <div id="WISESTAMP_SIG_gmail_session">
              <div
                style="font-size:13px;font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
                <div style="margin:0 0 8px 0">
                  <p style="margin:0"><span style="color:#808080"><strong>Jason
                        Szumlanski</strong><em>&nbsp;</em></span></p>
                  <p style="margin:0">
                    <span style="color:#808080"><em>Fafco Solar</em></span><span
style="color:gray;font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:80%">&nbsp;</span><br>
                  </p>
                </div>
              </div>
            </div>
          </div>
          <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
            <br>
            <div class="gmail_quote">
              On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Ray Walters <span
                dir="ltr">&lt;<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                  href="mailto:ray@solarray.com" target="_blank">ray@solarray.com</a>&gt;</span>
              wrote:<br>
              <blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
                .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
                <div text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
                  <div>How is this roof type for flashing?&nbsp; Do you just
                    cut it with a tin snips?&nbsp; My project only entails
                    replacing an unflashed conduit penetration with a
                    Soladeck, so I'm hoping it won't be too bad.
                    <div class="im"><br>
                      <pre cols="72">R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer, 
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
<a moz-do-not-send="true" href="tel:303%20505-8760" value="+13035058760" target="_blank">303 505-8760</a></pre>
                    </div>
                    <div>
                      <div class="h5"> On 3/21/2013 8:58 AM, Jason
                        Szumlanski wrote:<br>
                      </div>
                    </div>
                  </div>
                  <div>
                    <div class="h5">
                      <blockquote type="cite">
                        <div dir="ltr">We've used the standoff and boot
                          method successfully. It dictates where you put
                          your rows to some extent, but it's not too
                          bad. There is definitely a hefty up-charge on
                          this roof type. It adds quite a bit of labor
                          and material.<br>
                          <br>
                          <br>
                          <div>
                            <div
                              style="font-size:13px;font-family:Verdana,Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif">
                              <div style="margin:0 0 8px 0">
                                <p style="margin:0"><span
                                    style="color:#808080"><strong>Jason
                                      Szumlanski</strong><em>&nbsp;</em></span></p>
                                <p style="margin:0"><span
                                    style="color:#808080"><em>Fafco
                                      Solar<br>
                                    </em></span><br>
                                </p>
                              </div>
                            </div>
                          </div>
                        </div>
                        <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
                          <br>
                          <div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Mar 21, 2013
                            at 7:52 AM, Will White <span dir="ltr">&lt;<a
                                moz-do-not-send="true"
                                href="mailto:William.White@realgoods.com"
                                target="_blank">William.White@realgoods.com</a>&gt;</span>
                            wrote:<br>
                            <blockquote class="gmail_quote"
                              style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px
                              #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">We've done a
                              couple of installs on metal shingle roofs
                              and we used the Unirac stand offs with the
                              Oatey boots. &nbsp;We had the standoffs and
                              flashing installed by the roofer so it
                              wouldn't void the roof warranty. &nbsp;It cost
                              about $1500 extra but we thought it was
                              worth if in case of a leak.<br>
                              <br>
                              Thanks,<br>
                              Will<br>
                              <br>
                              <br>
__________________________________________________________________________________________<br>
                              Will White<br>
                              Regional Field Operations Manager - New
                              England<br>
                              <br>
                              Real Goods Solar<br>
                              64 Main St.<br>
                              Montpelier, VT 05602<br>
                              Tel: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                                href="tel:%28802%29%20223-7804"
                                value="+18022237804" target="_blank">(802)

                                223-7804</a><br>
                              Cell: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                                href="tel:%28802%29%20234-3167"
                                value="+18022343167" target="_blank">(802)

                                234-3167</a><br>
                              <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                                href="http://www.realgoodssolar.com"
                                target="_blank">www.realgoodssolar.com</a><br>
                              <div>
                                <div><br>
                                  <br>
                                  <br>
                                  -----Original Message-----<br>
                                  From: <a moz-do-not-send="true"
                                    href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org"
                                    target="_blank">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>
                                  [mailto:<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                                    href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org"
                                    target="_blank">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>]
                                  On Behalf Of Jesse Dahl<br>
                                  Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 11:33
                                  PM<br>
                                  To: Wrenches<br>
                                  Subject: [RE-wrenches] Metal shingles<br>
                                  <br>
                                  Hello,<br>
                                  <br>
                                  I looked at a site today and the
                                  roofing was a brand of metal shingle.
                                  This was just a quick drive by and
                                  check out the site so I don't have
                                  access to the brand or method of
                                  attachment.<br>
                                  <br>
                                  It still got me thinking, what are
                                  people doing for attachments to
                                  roofing like this? &nbsp;6/12 pitch, and
                                  from the photos the client sent me,
                                  the structure is 2"X6" truss running
                                  N-S, with 1"x4" strapping every 4'
                                  running E-W along with 5/8" OSB on top
                                  of the strapping. &nbsp;The trusses look to
                                  be on 4' centers (just judging by the
                                  photo).<br>
                                  <br>
                                  The only thing I can think of is EJOT
                                  type fasteners through the shingle
                                  into the truss. The shingles would
                                  crush a little bit, but the OSB would
                                  support it pretty well. &nbsp;Otherwise
                                  removing the shingles where the feet
                                  would go and then.....<br>
                                  <br>
                                  As always thanks for all the help.<br>
                                  <br>
                                  Jesse<br>
                                  <br>
                                  Sent from my iPhone<br>
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