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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=EN-US link=blue vlink=purple><div class=WordSection1><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>In the early days, LED’s were rated by the candela and so everything was apples and oranges. Long time ago, I used an LED to allow boats to navigate into a narrow passage by lining it up with a second one a distance away. You didn’t have to read a map by it, just see it. As you said Alan, with Christmas lights and candles you are only looking for a pretty spot of light without really thinking of lumens. At least now LED’s are also rated in lumens. And it is still very worth the trouble checking lumens/watt. I was in Home Despot not long ago, comparing LED’s with linear fluorescents and none of the LED’s compared well.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Bill Dorsett<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Sunwrights<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'>Manhattan, KS<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=MsoNormal><span style='font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div style='border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in'><p class=MsoNormal><b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'>From:</span></b><span style='font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"'> re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org [mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Mick Abraham<br><b>Sent:</b> Wednesday, December 05, 2012 3:54 PM<br><b>To:</b> RE-wrenches<br><b>Subject:</b> [RE-wrenches] Fix the Fluorescents: What about LED tubes for late 2012?<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=MsoNormal style='margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Hi, Knuckle-Busters~<br><br>It's lighting retrofit time and also time for me to review "what I thought I knew" about various lighting technologies. <br><br>+++++++++++++++++++++++++<br><br>Round one of the conversion involves >>well known RV brand<< T8 tubular fluorescent fixtures (3' long single tube). These have 24vDC ballasts which (in various brands) have failed way too often...and the tubes also are failing too soon. <br><br>I've mostly decided to convert the circuits to good ol' American AC instead of DC, then I gotta select ballasts (to stay fluor) or convert to LED. Some of the List members handle lighting retrofits for better energy efficiency, etc. so I need a refresher course.<br><br>+++++++++++++++++++++++<br><br>For AC ballasts, I'm focusing on the "Programmed Start" type which seem less destructive to the tubes when cycled on and off frequently. I could drive three tubes with one ballast but then a single bulb failure sends the whole group to black since the tubes connect in series. <br><br>Is there a way to test a fluorescent tube using a volt-ohmmeter or other non-exotic method? The cost benefit of sharing a ballast among three fixtures goes smaller if it's a hassle at lamp replacement time. A failed ballast would be tricky to spot with three lamps adding more variables. <br><br>+++++++++++++++++++++++++<br><br>I see there are now T8 tubular LED lamps which of course deliver more lumens per watt and of course they are still costly. With no ballast to buy, if I compared devoting a $25 ballast to each fixture against converting to a $50 LED tube, "it's only double the cost" to go LED.<br><br>Is LED now ready for prime time? I got on that band wagon too early because the "white light" units were moonlight blue, they seemed dimmer than a flashlight, color rendition was poor, and worst of all:<br><br>My early LED purchases stopped working properly >>as should not be the case if LED is done right.<< Admittedly, my early LED buys were--don't get me started--designed for DC and I think the battery voltage fluctuation may play havoc with LED and also with the DC fluorescent ballasts. <br><br>Final question: how could I be sure that new LED lights won't "roach out" in a few years? My untrained eye has never helped me avoid crummy tech before, so I guess it comes down to identifying one (or more) major manufacturer, maybe with a long warranty and a good likelihood of staying in business. <br><br>My friends and I must stop buying junk that's going to break--even if it is all hyped up about being the "New Latest Environmentally Correct Energy Saver". Those >>well known RV brand<< fluorescents are a case in point to say nothing of round two: DC driven CFL's!<br><br>Thanks & Jolliness,<o:p></o:p></p><div><p class=MsoNormal>Mick Abraham, Proprietor<br><a href="http://www.abrahamsolar.com" target="_blank">www.abrahamsolar.com</a><br><br>Voice: 970-731-4675<o:p></o:p></p></div><p class=MsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div></body></html>