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<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D">Hi Bennett/Bill -</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D">A 2:12 roof is 9.5 degrees. You might consider the ChemCurb
product which I believe is good up to about 10 degrees: </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D"><a href="http://www.chemlinkinc.com/docs/brochure/chemcurb_v5p4.pdf">http://www.chemlinkinc.com/docs/brochure/chemcurb_v5p4.pdf</a></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D">We use these all the time and I feel that they provide a very
robust seal. I've never used them on comp shingles but I imagine that you could
use a little extra M-1 to glue them down to assure that the self-leveling one
part sealant doesn't leak out between the shingle layers.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D">-August</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D">August Goers</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D"></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D">Luminalt Energy Corporation</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D">1320 Potrero Avenue</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D">San Francisco, CA 94110</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D">m: 415.559.1525</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D">o: 415.641.4000</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D"><a href="mailto:august@luminalt.com">august@luminalt.com</a></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";
color:#1F497D"></span></p>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in 0in 0in">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">From:</span></b><span style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">
<a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>
[mailto:<a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Bill
Hoffer<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, October 07, 2010 10:30 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> RE-wrenches<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [RE-wrenches] lifting shingles</span></p>
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<p>Bennett<br>
I have a roof similar to the one you described. It was designed for
coastal regions of Alaska, heat-freeze cycling and high winds. Roofer
warned me that I better plan my penetrations because after season in the sun I
would never be able to lift the shingle again! That being said have you
tried a hot knife? L feet seem like the way to go! Good luck!</p>
<p>Bill</p>
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<p class="MsoNormal">On Oct 7, 2010 2:05 AM, "benn kilburn" <<a href="mailto:benn@daystarsolar.ca">benn@daystarsolar.ca</a>> wrote:<br>
> <br>
> salute, i was inspecting a (~3yr old) 2/12 pitch roof for an upcoming
install that was going to have flashed roof connection points and noticed that
i could not lift up any of the shingles for installing the flashing. the
sealing strip that holds the upper shingle to the one below it, is aggressively
stubborn. i tried several in the area of the array location and they are all
sealed down very well, much better than any other comp shingle i've come
across, which typically lift and separate from the 'sticky strip' with a careful
little tug on the shingle. all the ones i tried began to tear the back off the
top shingle that i was trying to lift. i'm told these are a higher quality comp
shingle and are well suited for low pitch roofs, they have a 35 yr warranty.<br>
> i contacted the shingle mfg. tech support and after explaining what i was
doing his suggestion was literally "try lifting them when its warm out
then try when its cold out, see if that works.".... thanks tips!<br>
> my first thought was to use a torch to heat and soften up the shingles'
sealing strips that i needed to lift. i'm not surprised that the shingle tech
did not endorse this method. i'm not thrilled about it either. just having a
propane bottle and torch on the roof, risk of overheating (burning) the
shingles, extra time to do this, are things i'd prefer to avoid. <br>
> i'm sure if done carefully this method would work, but i'm a little more
cautious than just trying it without asking around so i've been contacting a
few roofers i've worked with, as well i'm wondering if any of you have come
across this issue of having to lift particularly well-sealed comp shingles and
how you have dealt with it.<br>
> if the consensus is to stay away from the torch then i'm prepared to go
with the good ol' l-feet on this one.<br>
> cheers,benn<br>
> DayStar Renewable Energy Inc. benn@daystarsolar.ca780-906-7807 HAVE A
SUNNY DAY<br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> <br>
> </p>
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