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<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Wrenches,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>I have always used Peters #2 process. The reason being, in
hot climates, asphalt shingles become very soft and susceptible to damage. We've
all walked across one on a sunny >90f day. Anything mounted against
one or more layers of 3 tab, and lagged firmly into a rafter, will compress
the softened asphalt. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>So in the future, the flange that's flat against the
shingles, is not as tight against the shingles as it would be if tourqued
directly to the decking. And over the years, the minute movements of the
stanchion and flange, from thermal stress, wood shrinkage, wild lift or load,
will further compress the shingles under the increasingly loose
fitting flange. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Also, if a future roof pulloff &
replacement is necessary, the entire array must be removed, including the
standoffs. So when the new shingles are in place, all the mounting holes have
disappeared. A complete array install is in order.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>It is indeed a little more work to mount directly to the
decking but that's what sealant is for. I get barely 4 standoffs per tube. It's
cheap insurance in my book.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>I also encourage every homeowner, during site surveys,
to insist of others offering bids that flashing be used rather
than angle aluminum brackets. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT size=2><STRONG>Jim Duncan<BR>North Texas Renewable
Energy Inc<BR>4029 Aragon Drive<BR>Fort Worth, Texas
76133<BR>817.917.0527<BR></STRONG></FONT><A
href="mailto:ntrei@earthlink.net"><FONT
size=2><STRONG>ntrei@earthlink.net</STRONG></FONT></A><BR><FONT
size=2><STRONG>Serving North Texas since 1994.<BR>For more information
</STRONG></FONT><A href="http://www.ntrei.com"><FONT
size=2><STRONG>www.ntrei.com</STRONG></FONT></A><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE
style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV
style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: black"><B>From:</B>
<A title=peter.parrish@calsolareng.com
href="mailto:peter.parrish@calsolareng.com">Peter Parrish</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A
title=re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org
href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org">'RE-wrenches'</A> </DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, September 15, 2008 11:28
AM</DIV>
<DIV style="FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: [RE-wrenches] Stanchions for
Comp Shingle Roofs</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV class=Section1>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=black size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: black">Im not sure if we have discussed this
before, but I would like to get opinions on the relative merits of the
following two approaches to setting stanchions and flashing them in for a roof
mounted PV system:</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=black size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: black"></SPAN></FONT> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=black size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: black">Existing comp shingle roof in good
condition. Professional Solar Fast-Jacks (or similar stanchions that result in
a to 1 post to which to attach rails). I am not endorsing ProSolar
products, I just wanted a specific example to work with.</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=black size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: black"></SPAN></FONT> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=black size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: black">Approach #1: Lag stanchions directly
onto existing comp shingle roof; cut a inverted U into the top layer of
shingle; slip in Oatey-style flashing (9x12, with an elastomeric ring); seal
exposed vertical edges of flashing with a bead of high quality caulk (Sika
1A)</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face=Arial color=black size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: black"></SPAN></FONT> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=black size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: black">Approach #2: Remove shingles down to the
felt; lag stanchion; replace shingles incorporating full-sized (15x18)
flashing and seal top of flashing with high-quality caulk.</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=black size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: black"></SPAN></FONT> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=black size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: black">Obviously, approach #2 takes longer and
costs more, but does it confer commensurate benefit? If the resulting
stanchion/flashing were exposed to the elements, I would tend to favor the
latter approach; and if we were dealing with new construction the difference
in time and money would not be significant. However, if the stanchion/flashing
lies directly underneath a PV module, it will be shaded from the deleterious
effects of UV sunlight and will not receive any direct rain or snow
accumulation. Under these specific circumstances, I would argue that approach
#1 should be more than adequate and last at least as long as an existing comp
shingle roof. </SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=black size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: black"></SPAN></FONT> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=black size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: black">For those of you who havent seen the
Fast-Jack/Oatey approach, you might want to look at <A
href="http://www.prosolar.com/Oateys.htm">http://www.prosolar.com/Oateys.htm</A>.
</SPAN></FONT></P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=black size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: black"></SPAN></FONT> </P>
<P class=MsoNormal><FONT face="Times New Roman" color=black size=3><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; COLOR: black"> - Peter</SPAN></FONT></P>
<DIV>
<P><FONT face=Arial color=navy size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Peter T. Parrish,
Ph.D., President<BR>California Solar Engineering, Inc.<BR>820 Cynthia Ave.,
Los Angeles, CA 90065<BR>Ph 323-258-8883, Mobile 323-839-6108, Fax
323-258-8885<BR>CA Lic. 854779, NABCEP Cert.
031806-26<BR>peter.parrish@calsolareng.com</SPAN></FONT><FONT face=Arial
color=blue size=2><SPAN
style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">
</SPAN></FONT></P></DIV></DIV>
<P>
<HR>
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