<html><body style="word-wrap: break-word; -webkit-nbsp-mode: space; -webkit-line-break: after-white-space; ">I might only to add that use a lot of never-seize when you install the 2 part feet from Prosolar and unirack.<div><br></div><div>I like these designs, but they will corrode up and you'll never get them apart in some years.</div><div><br></div><div>jay</div><div><br></div><div>peltz power<br><div><div>On Sep 15, 2008, at 10:19 AM, North Texas Renewable Energy Inc wrote:</div><br class="Apple-interchange-newline"><blockquote type="cite"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: separate; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: auto; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 0px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-decorations-in-effect: none; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0; "><div lang="EN-US" vlink="blue" link="blue" bgcolor="white"><div><font face="Arial">Wrenches,</font></div><div><font face="Arial">I have always used Peters #2 process. The reason being, in hot climates, asphalt shingles become very soft and susceptible to damage. We've all walked across one on a sunny >90f day. Anything mounted against one or more layers of 3 tab, and lagged firmly into a rafter, will compress the softened asphalt.</font></div><div><font face="Arial">So in the future, the flange that's flat against the shingles, is not as tight against the shingles as it would be if tourqued directly to the decking. And over the years, the minute movements of the stanchion and flange, from thermal stress, wood shrinkage, wild lift or load, will further compress the shingles under the increasingly loose fitting flange.</font></div><div><font face="Arial">Also, if a future roof pulloff & replacement is necessary, the entire array must be removed, including the standoffs. So when the new shingles are in place, all the mounting holes have disappeared. A complete array install is in order.</font></div><div><font face="Arial">It is indeed a little more work to mount directly to the decking but that's what sealant is for. I get barely 4 standoffs per tube. It's cheap insurance in my book.</font></div><div><font face="Arial">I also encourage every homeowner, during site surveys, to insist of others offering bids that flashing be used rather than angle aluminum brackets.</font></div><div><font face="Arial"><font size="2"><strong>Jim Duncan<br>North Texas Renewable Energy Inc<br>4029 Aragon Drive<br>Fort Worth, Texas 76133<br>817.917.0527<br></strong></font><a href="mailto:ntrei@earthlink.net" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; "><font size="2"><strong>ntrei@earthlink.net</strong></font></a><br><font size="2"><strong>Serving North Texas since 1994.<br>For more information<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></strong></font><a href="http://www.ntrei.com" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; "><font size="2"><strong>www.ntrei.com</strong></font></a><br></font></div><div><font face="Arial"></font> </div><blockquote style="padding-right: 0px; padding-left: 5px; margin-left: 5px; border-left-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); border-left-width: 2px; border-left-style: solid; margin-right: 0px; "><div style="font: normal normal normal 10pt/normal arial; ">----- Original Message -----</div><div style="background-image: initial; background-repeat: initial; background-attachment: initial; -webkit-background-clip: initial; -webkit-background-origin: initial; background-color: rgb(228, 228, 228); font: normal normal normal 10pt/normal arial; background-position: initial initial; "><b>From:</b><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><a title="peter.parrish@calsolareng.com" href="mailto:peter.parrish@calsolareng.com" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">Peter Parrish</a></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 10pt/normal arial; "><b>To:</b><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><a title="re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">'RE-wrenches'</a></div><div style="font: normal normal normal 10pt/normal arial; "><b>Sent:</b><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Monday, September 15, 2008 11:28 AM</div><div style="font: normal normal normal 10pt/normal arial; "><b>Subject:</b><span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span>Re: [RE-wrenches] Stanchions for Comp Shingle Roofs</div><div><br></div><div class="Section1"><div style="font-size: 12pt; margin-top: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; "><font face="Times New Roman" color="black" size="3"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: black; ">Im not sure if we have discussed this before, but I would like to get opinions on the relative merits of the following two approaches to setting stanchions and flashing them in for a roof mounted PV system:</span></font></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin-top: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; "><font face="Times New Roman" color="black" size="3"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: black; "></span></font> </p><div style="font-size: 12pt; margin-top: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; "><font face="Times New Roman" color="black" size="3"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: black; ">Existing comp shingle roof in good condition. Professional Solar Fast-Jacks (or similar stanchions that result in a to 1 post to which to attach rails). I am not endorsing ProSolar products, I just wanted a specific example to work with.</span></font></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin-top: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; "><font face="Times New Roman" color="black" size="3"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: black; "></span></font> </p><div style="font-size: 12pt; margin-top: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; "><font face="Times New Roman" color="black" size="3"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: black; ">Approach #1: Lag stanchions directly onto existing comp shingle roof; cut a inverted U into the top layer of shingle; slip in Oatey-style flashing (9x12, with an elastomeric ring); seal exposed vertical edges of flashing with a bead of high quality caulk (Sika 1A)</span></font></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin-top: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; "><font face="Arial" color="black" size="3"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: black; "></span></font> </p><div style="font-size: 12pt; margin-top: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; "><font face="Times New Roman" color="black" size="3"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: black; ">Approach #2: Remove shingles down to the felt; lag stanchion; replace shingles incorporating full-sized (15x18) flashing and seal top of flashing with high-quality caulk.</span></font></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin-top: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; "><font face="Times New Roman" color="black" size="3"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: black; "></span></font> </p><div style="font-size: 12pt; margin-top: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; "><font face="Times New Roman" color="black" size="3"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: black; ">Obviously, approach #2 takes longer and costs more, but does it confer commensurate benefit? If the resulting stanchion/flashing were exposed to the elements, I would tend to favor the latter approach; and if we were dealing with new construction the difference in time and money would not be significant. However, if the stanchion/flashing lies directly underneath a PV module, it will be shaded from the deleterious effects of UV sunlight and will not receive any direct rain or snow accumulation. Under these specific circumstances, I would argue that approach #1 should be more than adequate and last at least as long as an existing comp shingle roof.</span></font></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin-top: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; "><font face="Times New Roman" color="black" size="3"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: black; "></span></font> </p><div style="font-size: 12pt; margin-top: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; "><font face="Times New Roman" color="black" size="3"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: black; ">For those of you who havent seen the Fast-Jack/Oatey approach, you might want to look at<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><a href="http://www.prosolar.com/Oateys.htm" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://www.prosolar.com/Oateys.htm</a>. </span></font></div><p class="MsoNormal" style="font-size: 12pt; margin-top: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; "><font face="Times New Roman" color="black" size="3"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: black; "></span></font> </p><div style="font-size: 12pt; margin-top: 0in; margin-right: 0in; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-left: 0in; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; "><font face="Times New Roman" color="black" size="3"><span style="font-size: 12pt; color: black; "> - Peter</span></font></div><div><p style="font-size: 12pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; "><font face="Arial" color="navy" size="2"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: navy; font-family: Arial; ">Peter T. Parrish, Ph.D., President<br>California Solar Engineering, Inc.<br>820 Cynthia Ave., Los Angeles, CA 90065<br>Ph 323-258-8883, Mobile 323-839-6108, Fax 323-258-8885<br>CA Lic. 854779, NABCEP Cert. 031806-26<br><a href="mailto:peter.parrish@calsolareng.com" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">peter.parrish@calsolareng.com</a></span></font><font face="Arial" color="blue" size="2"><span style="font-size: 10pt; color: blue; font-family: Arial; "></span></font></p></div></div><div style="font-size: 12pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; "><br class="webkit-block-placeholder"></div><hr><div style="font-size: 12pt; margin-left: 0in; margin-right: 0in; font-family: 'Times New Roman'; "><br class="webkit-block-placeholder"></div>_______________________________________________<br>List sponsored by Home Power magazine<br><br>List Address:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><a href="mailto:RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a><br><br>Options & settings:<br><a href="http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org</a><br><br>List-Archive:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><a href="http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org</a><br><br>List rules & etiquette:<br><a href="http://www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm</a><br><br>Check out participant bios:<br><a href="http://www.members.re-wrenches.org" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">www.members.re-wrenches.org</a><br><br></blockquote>_______________________________________________<br>List sponsored by Home Power magazine<br><br>List Address:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><a href="mailto:RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a><br><br>Options & settings:<br><a href="http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org</a><br><br>List-Archive:<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><a href="http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">http://lists.re-wrenches.org/pipermail/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org</a><br><br>List rules & etiquette:<br><a href="http://www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm</a><br><br>Check out participant bios:<br><a href="http://www.members.re-wrenches.org" style="color: blue; text-decoration: underline; ">www.members.re-wrenches.org</a><br><br></div></span></blockquote></div><br></div></body></html>