<div dir="ltr"><div>Yes... if the PV is not on the last outlet in the string, there is the potential for overloading a portion of the string if someone plugged in more than 16A of heavy loads farther out on the string -- the wire portion between the PV backfeed and the next outlet could have more amperage on it. Same issue as when your backfed breaker isn't on on the opposite end of the busbar from the grid feed.</div><div><br></div><div>I remember the OK4U inverter from Trace. Back when mechanical meters just spun backwards. It was discontinued before I ever lived somewhere with grid power, so never got to use one.</div><div><br></div><div>Then they started putting electronic readers on the mechanical meters, and they only counted how many times the black line went by, not which direction, so were effectively ratcheted, and I believe all of the standard electronic ones now are ratcheted in the software. Or, they're smartmeters that immediately report back if you sell a few watts ever. I've seen people run into that numerous times when self consumption systems blipped below 0 watts during load changes, when the inverter wasn't programmed for enough baseload draw from the grid.</div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Thu, May 28, 2026 at 12:27 PM Bryan Norkunas <<a href="mailto:bryan@pv-cables.com">bryan@pv-cables.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
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Was this considered balcony solar back in 1998?</div>
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Bryan Norkunas</div>
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PV-Cables, Inc. </div>
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<div id="m_-562424115657993380divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt" color="#000000"><b>From:</b> RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">re-wrenches-bounces@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>> on behalf of Jay via RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, May 28, 2026 12:10:27 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>><br>
<b>Cc:</b> Jay <<a href="mailto:jay.peltz@gmail.com" target="_blank">jay.peltz@gmail.com</a>>; Zeke Yewdall <<a href="mailto:zeke@darkforestsolar.com" target="_blank">zeke@darkforestsolar.com</a>>; RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [RE-wrenches] Balcony Solar</font>
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<div dir="ltr">Hi Zeke </div>
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<div dir="ltr">I see a few issues. </div>
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<div dir="ltr">If there is a circuit with A as the first outlet then B,C,d. If the 16A is put into B then C and D now have the potential for 36 amps. Bit high for 12 ga wire. </div>
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<div dir="ltr">As to the meters as far as I know most all meters unless configured for bidirectional use either are mechanical ratcheting so they cant count backwards. Or are electronic and I’m unclear as to what happens. I e heard they count up either direction
so if your selling power the meter adds or it might just lock like the ratcheting. I guess depending on the meter. </div>
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<div dir="ltr">Finally I live in an all electric house and for most of the year, 8+ months when I’m not using heat, my daytime base loads are like 200 watts. Of course if someone is home then could be laundry etc. </div>
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<div dir="ltr">A small system say 400 watts or less is going to be mostly used for some daytime self consumption. But 2000 watts is way overkill and for most it seems it will be wasted for the consumer. And as you say it’ll make people mad about how little
it’s doing. </div>
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<div dir="ltr">Finally as to dates. I had a OK4U made by NKF back in 2000 grid tie micro inverter for a single 100 watt panel plugged into an outlet on my deck. I keep reading it’s a new idea, nope. </div>
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<div dir="ltr">Big push lots of hype. </div>
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<blockquote type="cite">On May 28, 2026, at 9:40 AM, Zeke Yewdall via RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>> wrote:<br>
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<div>Trying to wrap my brain around exactly what this entails. Specifically in Colorado, as that's where I still do most of my design work, but also in other places if it's different/better/worse/etc....</div>
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<div>This is the actual text of the Colorado bill</div>
<div><a href="https://leg.colorado.gov/bill_files/116074/download" target="_blank">https://leg.colorado.gov/bill_files/116074/download</a></div>
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<div>From reading it... it appears that it's limited to 1920 watts AC output, and limited to one system per address. Systems under 391 watts AC output are exempt from a number of other requirements (which seem to pertain mostly to NABCEP certified supervisors
and licensed electricians), but still have to be UL listed. Does that imply that licensed electricians or NABCEP certified installers must install ones between 391 watts and 1920 watts?</div>
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<div>It appears that utilities cannot require approval, a fee, or any modifications to the house electrical system (4a) but can require being notified of the installation and size (4b)</div>
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<div>I am wondering how this works with ratcheted meters, which is the norm nowadays in Colorado. I have asked Xcel for their guidance on this.</div>
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<div>In general... the idea of balcony solar seems very problematic. While I'm totally in support of more solar on the grid, and making smaller systems more doable, I have lots of questions on how this will work in reality.</div>
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<div>1) Structural issues: Most homeowners do not know how to properly mount solar panels against the winds that we have in Colorado. It's normal for cars and neighbors to be assulted by wandering trash cans during every windstorm... adding errant solar modules
to this doesn't seem like a good idea. Most temporary solar racking I've seen from manfucturers (from RV solar sellers mostly) is completely inadequate to withstand 100+mph winds as well. How will proper securing of the solar modules be enforced?</div>
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<div>2) Electrical integration: 1920 watts is a fully loaded 20A 120 volt output (16A continuous). If it is a new, high quality outlet, it should be good for that, but what if it is a old outlet on the deck that's gotten all loose from 30 years of power tools
and christmas lights being plugged and unplugged? What if it's the $1.99 consumer version of the outlet, not the $8.99 commercial version? I've seen the cheaper ones, and many old loose ones, burn up when used with electric space heaters, which is a similar
amperage and time span load to a full size balcony solar system. </div>
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<div>3) Metering: Since most all utilities in Colorado now use ratcheted meters, it will be a problem if the system exports without somehow getting a bidirectional meter. If it is a lightly loaded apartment, where a 1920 watt system would really make a different
in energy use, then it's likely the baseload will be below 1920 watts midday, and it needs to export. If it's a larger house where the baseload midday is over 1920 watts, then export isn't the issue, but the problem is that people will install a 1920 watt
system when they really need a 5 or 8 or 12kW system to affect their bill much -- and then they'll just decide that "solar doesn't work" and it will give solar a bad name for more people. Given that most people don't understand kWh and energy use, and marketing
always seems to overpromise what equipment can do, I don't expect that a majority of consumers will understand that a 1920 watt system is not sufficient to make a significant impact for a majority of houses out there. I've even had customers install 10kW
systems, and not understand that by adding a hot tub and electric water heater and heat pump and electric range at the same time, they overwhelmed the production of the system, and that's why their bill actually went up.</div>
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<div>4) Licensure and permits: This could solve some of the issues above... but Colorado allows homeowners to pull permits so licensure and training of the installer is still no guaranteed. And most building departments have a permitting process that's aimed
at larger systems... a large system requiring 10 pages of documentation and an engineers stamp and a $500 permit fee is not unreasonable. But for a $2000 balcony kit... how can permitting enforce some basic standards, without becoming a insurmountable hurdle.
Also, as a professional installer, I found that fixed costs were a large portion of the cost of installing a system. My cost to do drawings, get a PE stamp for the roof/racking, file for a permit, file for interconnection agreement, and roll a truck were
pretty much the same for a 3kW system or a 10kW system. There was more onsite labor for the 10kW system doing racking and modules, but even electrical wiring was about the same onsite labor for both sizes. Onsite labor should be much less for a balcony solar
system, especially if plugging into a deck outlet (replacing it with a brand new commercial quality 20A outlet maybe). But costs for drawings, permitting, interconnection won't be different unless a different system is made. Materials are obviously more
for the larger systems, but labor made the overall total cost quite a bit higher per watt for the smaller systems, and going to a one or two panel system could be even more share for the off-site labor portion of the total cost. If building departments and
utilities put the balcony solar systems through the same paperwork as larger systems, I can easily see that costing more than the materials or onsite labor.</div>
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<div dir="ltr">Zeke Yewdall
<div>PV Engineer</div>
<div>NABCEP #031508-89</div>
<div><a href="mailto:zeke@darkforestsolar.com" target="_blank">zeke@darkforestsolar.com</a></div>
<div>303-523-3592</div>
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</blockquote></div><div><br clear="all"></div><br><span class="gmail_signature_prefix">-- </span><br><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr">Zeke Yewdall<div>PV Engineer</div><div>NABCEP #031508-89</div><div><a href="mailto:zeke@darkforestsolar.com" target="_blank">zeke@darkforestsolar.com</a></div><div>303-523-3592</div></div></div></div></div>