<html><head><meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"></head><body dir="auto"><div dir="ltr"></div><div dir="ltr">That’s a good point about the KO sizes. </div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">According to what I can find. A 2” KO is 51mm actual but the metric standard size is 53mm. </div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">It’s the little things that add up. </div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr">Jay</div><div dir="ltr"><br></div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Jul 26, 2025, at 8:51 PM, Jason Szumlanski via RE-wrenches <re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div dir="auto"><div>Yep, EG4 is definitely listening to installers and building out a complete line of products. There is no denying that. I was an early detractor for this DIY focused manufacturer, but that has quickly changed. </div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">Even the modern and venerable Enphase has their ridiculous System Controller with a tapered enclosure and 1" offset backplate from the wall. It's infuriating trying to get in and out of that thing.</div><div dir="auto"><br></div><div dir="auto">I do like the Midnite AIO prepunched holes, but the plastic bushings they provide don't work with my knockout punch set. They are too big. I have resorted to carbide bits to match the hole size, but getting those lined up / centered is not easy. </div><div><br></div><div data-smartmail="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr">Jason Szumlanski<div><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Roboto,RobotoDraft,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px">Principal Solar Designer | Florida Solar Design Group</span><br style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Roboto,RobotoDraft,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Roboto,RobotoDraft,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px">NABCEP Certified Solar Professional (PVIP)</span><br style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Roboto,RobotoDraft,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Roboto,RobotoDraft,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px">Florida State Certified Solar Contractor CVC56956</span></div><div><font color="#333333" face="Roboto, RobotoDraft, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif">Florida Certified Electrical Contractor EC13013208</font></div></div></div></div><br><div class="gmail_quote gmail_quote_container"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sat, Jul 26, 2025, 6:57 PM MDElectricSolar via RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="auto">The Discover Helios battery can be purchased with a pre-built gutter box that mates it together with a Solark 15 K. The problem is most of our installs are at least two of the Helios batteries.<div><br><div><div dir="ltr"><div>Michael D Nelson</div><div>MD Electric & Solar, Inc.</div><div>707-684-0064 mobile</div><div>707-884-1862 office</div><div><a href="http://www.mdelectricsolar.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">www.mdelectricsolar.com</a></div><div><a href="http://www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">www.facebook.com/mdelectricandsolar</a></div><br></div><div dir="ltr"><br><blockquote type="cite">On Jul 26, 2025, at 2:56 PM, jay via RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type="cite"><div dir="ltr"><div><br></div>What to me this thread shows is the lack of complete engineering from these OEM's to be able to actually install their equipment to NEC specifications by not providing the needed BOS equipment. <div>I respect the ingenuity that has been shown here in creating the products the OEM’s should have available. <br><div><br></div><div>Whether it’s OEM conduit bodies/box to fit specific batteries or inverters or how to run cables or even mount cables to their batteries or battery combiner box/breakers etc improvement is way overdue. </div><div><br></div><div>I mean in the 90’s Trace had a fully integrated power panel with all the parts, or Outback, or Magnum or Midnite. </div><div>Why have we gone backwards such that we the installers are having to do custom work to create products to install the system? These companies can buy expensive equipment from china but can’t supply a conduit box that has the same KO pattern as the inverter or integrate to the battery? </div><div>I don’t know about you all but I always install a bypass switch, why don’t they have one that integrates into the system? </div><div><br></div><div>It’s one of the reasons i’ve been buying EG4 products. They are providing a complete set of parts all from 1 OEM: inverters/batteries,conduit bodies, battery cables. For example they have a mounting jig that comes with the battery so you can mount the inverter bracket exactly where it needs to be so they can be attached together, that is slick. It saves me a ton of time/hassle and the customer money. They have touch safe quick connect battery connectors and they sell the parts to make them yourself, I like that. </div><div>Oh believe me there is any number of things I’d have them change/modify/upgrade but to me they have been thinking like an installer with providing all this equipment. </div><div><br></div><div>In the mean time I”ll wait for the others to bring the parts that make it easy and code to install.</div><div><br></div><div>Jay</div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><div><br><blockquote type="cite"><div>On Jul 26, 2025, at 8:18 AM, Jason Szumlanski via RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>> wrote:</div><br><div><div dir="ltr"><div dir="ltr"><div><div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif">I use 10x10 gutters for Midhite AIO and 12x12 for Sol-Ark. It works great.</div><br clear="all"></div><div><div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:arial,helvetica,sans-serif">I attached a pic of a recent Midnite installation. Note that the hack job flex conduit is not mine. That was the builder's electrical contractor.</div><font color="#888888"><br></font></div><font color="#888888"><div><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><br>Jason Szumlanski<div><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Roboto,RobotoDraft,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px">Principal Solar Designer | Florida Solar Design Group</span><br style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Roboto,RobotoDraft,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Roboto,RobotoDraft,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px">NABCEP Certified Solar Professional (PVIP)</span><br style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Roboto,RobotoDraft,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Roboto,RobotoDraft,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px">Florida State Certified Solar Contractor CVC56956</span></div><div><font color="#333333" face="Roboto, RobotoDraft, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif">Florida Certified Electrical Contractor EC13013208</font></div></div></div></div></font></div><div><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><br>Jason Szumlanski<div><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Roboto,RobotoDraft,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px">Principal Solar Designer | Florida Solar Design Group</span><br style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Roboto,RobotoDraft,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Roboto,RobotoDraft,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px">NABCEP Certified Solar Professional (PVIP)</span><br style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Roboto,RobotoDraft,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px"><span style="color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Roboto,RobotoDraft,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:13px">Florida State Certified Solar Contractor CVC56956</span></div><div><font color="#333333" face="Roboto, RobotoDraft, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif">Florida Certified Electrical Contractor EC13013208</font></div></div></div></div><br></div><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Fri, Jul 25, 2025 at 6:43 PM Zeke Yewdall via RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div class="gmail_quote"><div>I noticed this on a SolArk job -- I think I bought out all of NW montana of 1" offset nipples to get 3 of them mounted to an 8" gutter once.</div><div><br></div><div>On the Midnite AIO's a 10" gutter is perfect to not need any offsets. But you can mount smaller gutters on various levels of unistrut to space them off the wall. An 8" gutter on standard unistrut works fairly well, and I think you could space a 6" off with two or three levels of unistrut to get it to line up well. Of course then the gutter is too far from the wall to easily mount other equipment on top of it, and it can be harder to do rear entries into the gutter from the wall. That's where the 10" gutter is nicer, because it can catch the front of the inverter, as well as an AC panel or such mounted off to the side of the inverter, and catch pass throughs into the back of it. I'm not sure about the SolArk and Fortress, but I imagine they'd be pretty similar.</div><div><br></div><div>Zeke</div><div> </div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
Message: 1<br>
Date: Fri, 25 Jul 2025 15:19:29 -0700<br>
From: William Miller <<a href="mailto:william@millersolar.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">william@millersolar.com</a>><br>
To: RE-wrenches <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org</a>><br>
Subject: [RE-wrenches] Knockouts far from the backplane.<br>
Message-ID: <<a href="mailto:12d27fd24ffa361c26a5955f888d098e@mail.gmail.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">12d27fd24ffa361c26a5955f888d098e@mail.gmail.com</a>><br>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"<br>
<br>
Friends:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
I have noticed increasingly that inverters I have been using (Soul-Arc and<br>
Fortress Envy) have knockouts that are far in front of the backplane on<br>
which the inverter would be mounted. Connecting conduit from these<br>
inverters into standard gutters, load centers and pull boxes is quite a<br>
hassle: Offsets can eat up a lot of vertical space. Pulling elbows (LBs)<br>
don?t really work in this situation.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
See diagram below:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
One solutIon is to stack pull boxes or gutters, althouigh this eats up<br>
vertical space and increases the labor and parts count:<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
How are the rest of you handling this backplane problem?<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Thanks in advance.<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
William Miller<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
Miller Solar<br>
<br>
17395 Oak Road, Atascadero, CA 93422<br>
<br>
805-438-5600<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.millersolar.com/" rel="noreferrer noreferrer" target="_blank">www.millersolar.com</a><br>
<br>
CA Lic. 773985<br>
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End of RE-wrenches Digest, Vol 18, Issue 283<br>
********************************************<br>
</blockquote></div><div><br clear="all"></div><br><span class="gmail_signature_prefix">-- </span><br><div dir="ltr" class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr"><div><div dir="ltr">Zeke Yewdall<div>PV Engineer</div><div>NABCEP #031508-89</div><div><a href="mailto:zeke@darkforestsolar.com" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer">zeke@darkforestsolar.com</a></div><div>303-523-3592</div></div></div></div></div></div>
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