<div dir="ltr">Hi all,<div><br></div><div>We also like making these splices with MC connectors. We already have the tools and parts, installers are good at it, the connection is solid, and it has the added bonus of improving maintenance/troubleshooting/commissioning because the splice is easy to separate and check. We used to use split bolts, but cutting open all of the tape to megger the homeruns is a pain. </div><div><br></div><div>The only downside to the MC connector method for small numbers of strings is that you need a larger j-box to accommodate them. For a handful of strings, use a short 4x4 gutter.</div><div><br></div><div>Blake</div><div><br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><div><div class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature">
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<br><div class="gmail_quote">On Mon, Apr 10, 2017 at 12:48 PM, <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:eric@harvesthesun.com" target="_blank">eric@harvesthesun.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div>Good discussion here. I will not rule out loose connections entirely but I will say that our installers know that can be an issue and really tighten their connections. I like William's suggestion of fabricating an MC-type connector at the PV Wire to THWN transition. At least I presume that's what he's suggesting. Indeed we've moved away from the screw-type Polaris and are not interested in the old-fashioned wire nut. We're 100% Sunpower and they recommend the Buchannon's so that's what we're installing today. However, I'm going to investigate the Miller method. William has never led me astray!</div>
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<div>Eric Stikes</div>
<div>SunHarvest</div>
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<blockquote class="m_8613133995550008478threadBlockQuote" style="border-left:2px solid #c2c2c2;padding-left:3px;margin-left:4px">--------- Original Message ---------
<div><span class="">Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad?<br></span><div><div class="h5">From: "William Miller" <<a href="mailto:william@millersolar.com" target="_blank">william@millersolar.com</a>><br>Date: 4/8/17 2:48 pm<br>To: "RE-wrenches" <<a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">re-wrenches@lists.re-<wbr>wrenches.org</a>><br><br>
<div> </div>
<div>Wrenches:</div>
<div> </div>
<div>I am wondering why the proliferation of splices in PV leads? We all know splices are a weak link. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>We allow only one connection between a module and the feeder destination-- be it a combiner, inverter or optimizer-- and it is an MC connector, one side of which is factory-made and provided by the module manufacturer. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>If one plans and pulls PV circuits with forethought, splices should not be necessary. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>If anyone wants to know more about how this can be accomplished, look at our web site or contact me off list. </div>
<div> </div>
<div>William</div>
<div><br>On Apr 8, 2017, at 10:05 AM, Glenn Burt <<a href="mailto:glenn.burt@glbcc.com" target="_blank">glenn.burt@glbcc.com</a>> wrote:<br><br></div>
<blockquote>
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<div>
<div style="font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt">It is also worth noting that many of the SMA installation manuals specifically say do not use wire nuts on DC wiring. <br>Of course choosing to ignore the manufacturers installation instructions would be a NEC violation.</div>
</div>
<div dir="ltr"><hr><span style="font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt;font-weight:bold">From: </span><span style="font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt"><a href="mailto:drake.chamberlin@redwoodalliance.org" target="_blank">Drake</a></span><br><span style="font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt;font-weight:bold">Sent: </span><span style="font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt">4/8/2017 12:10</span><br><span style="font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt;font-weight:bold">To: </span><span style="font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt"><a href="mailto:re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org" target="_blank">RE-wrenches</a></span><br><span style="font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt;font-weight:bold">Subject: </span><span style="font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;font-size:11pt">Re: [RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad?</span><br><br></div>
<br> At 01:35 PM 4/6/2017, you wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="m_8613133995550008478cite">Recently we interfaced with another solar install firm that has gone back to wire nuts due to this same problem.</blockquote>
<p><br> Wire nuts have the advantage of holding the wires tight with a spring. The spring follows the cold flow of the copper over the years. A screw type connection does not. <br><br> When I service an old breaker box, usually the wires are loose under the screw connections, especially on the neutral and grounding bars. Often they are very loose, and I bet that the screws were tight after the initial installation of the equipment. <br><br> On old industrial control equipment, I've learned the hard way to tighten all screws before doing anything in the box, as wires are prone to fall out of the loose screw connections. Again, these connections have the weakness of being held by terminal screws, with no spring to follow the cold flow of the metal. <br><br> With wire nuts, it can be a bit tricky to know if you have a good connection, as the connection is hidden under the plastic cap. It is good to pull hard on each wire separately to be sure it is securely under the spring. It is crucial never to mix copper and aluminum under a wire nut unless it is one specifically designed for the purpose. Unless specifically listed, all out door wire nuts should be in a weather proof box, and preferably taped. <br><br> <a name="m_8613133995550008478__MailAutoSig"></a>Drake Chamberlin<br> <em>Athens Electric LLC<br> OH License 44810<br> CO License 3773<br> NABCEP Certified Solar PV <br> <a href="tel:(740)%20448-7328" value="+17404487328" target="_blank">740-448-7328</a><br> </em><a href="http://athens-electric.com/" target="_blank">http://athens-electric.com/</a> </p>
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