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    Hi Shasta;<br>
    <br>
    Sounds like you get the prize for battery box diligence. Lots of
    good ideas there, although I've seen very bad things happen with
    steel bottom trays for batteries.  <br>
    I've also seen spray on bed liner get peeled right off by acid, so I
    would go with all plastic or concrete on any inside battery
    surfaces.  The stepped concrete with floor drain sounds really good
    too.<br>
    This Pic is of a 10 year old coated steel battery pan.  Tyvek suit
    time.<br>
    <img src="cid:part1.05080207.01090609@solarray.com" alt="">
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer, 
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760</pre>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/29/2016 10:08 AM, Shasta Daiku
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:A07C0FBD-412E-4547-9BC5-F5EEB44AADFA@gmail.com"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      I have always been dismayed with wooden battery boxes used in
      professionally installed power systems. It seems vey
      DIYer/HomePoweresque. Where else is wood used in electrical
      installations? I have on occasion built some BB plywood core
      boxes, sheetmetal outer skin/ FRP inner skin/ raw edges and
      corners banded with SS angle/ rubber gaskets with lots of latches.
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">I build boxes that are made of either plastic or
        metal depending on the environment and usage they’ll see.
        Plastic, that is HDPE or acrylics, I order online cut to size,
        or from a glass shop. 1/4” thickness. Metal, heavy gauge
        sheetmetal, I have cut by fabricators, and then coated with
        non-corrosive/conductive coatings by a cabinet shop.</div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">Here are some general guidelines</div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">-With either material, I keep the panels sized
        small. Less than 2’ x 2’ is nice, both for shipping and
        handling. </div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">-Panels can be attached to each other using H and U
        channel, and angle stock (which also gives rigidity). Lids are
        usually sectional rather than a heavy </div>
      <div class=""> single lid. Sometimes, on plastic lids I rout
        rabbets on the connecting seams so that the there is a half lap
        joint.</div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">-Plastic can be drilled and tapped. I generally
        avoid using adhesives because they are toxic as Hell and pieces
        want to slide out of alignment.</div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">-When batteries sit on metal racks, I enclose the
        racks with acrylic sheets using rare earth magnets. Magnets are
        attached to the acrylic with epoxy or the </div>
      <div class=""> magnet will have a counter sunk hole and machine
        screws can be used.</div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">-I seldom build a box with a back wall. Instead, I
        apply a sheet of FRP (fiberglass reinforced plastic) to the wall
        that the box sits against, smooth side out.</div>
      <div class=""> Side panels butt against, and are attached to the
        wall using U channel or angle stock. This accommodates a wall
        that may not be flat or a </div>
      <div class=""> wall/floor intersection that isn’t square. Corners,
        That is sides to front pieces are made with angle stock. They
        knock apart by using wing nuts or </div>
      <div class=""> magnets. That way the front of the box can be
        removed for placement/replacement.</div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">-I stopped using hinges for lids along time ago,
        when I started making lids that were sectional. Lately I run a
        length of U channel against the back wall, the </div>
      <div class=""> length of the box. The width of the channel is
        wider than the thickness of the sheet, so that the sheet will
        slide in easily. The lid section is removed rather </div>
      <div class=""> hinged up. You know the saying “Don’t let the lid
        hit you in the head!"</div>
      <div class=""> </div>
      <div class=""> -Over the years I have tried a lot of coatings in
        my metal boxes. All have held up well, but I have found that
        engine compartment type undercoatings to be</div>
      <div class="">  my favorite.</div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">-If I have a say in the power room/shed design, I
        will specify a concrete slab with a shallow basin for the
        batteries to sit in. The basin has a floor drain and is epoxy
        coated. Otherwise I have a sheetmetal tray fabricated and have
        it coated. The tray is separate from the enclosure.</div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">-In very hard use applications I have the box made
        by a company that outfits utility and work trucks with beds and
        boxes. These are just large custom</div>
      <div class=""> “truck boxes” </div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">-With smaller banks, I have successfully retrofitted
        both gang boxes and truck/utility boxes. The simplest setup
        being adding some cross members to a  </div>
      <div class=""> $300.00 gang box so that the batteries sat elevated
        within. That makes a very nice servicing height! Again interiors
        are coated.</div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">Growing up, I had a lot of exposure to both
        industrial off-grid power systems (mining, oil/gas, research,
        telecomm) and Maritime systems and thats</div>
      <div class="">where my sensibilities originated. Lately I have
        found myself the sole off-grid specialist in a fairly vast area,
        and so what Im doing mostly is replacing battery banks. Lots of
        battery banks, and lots of rotten, corroded, nasty toxic boxes!
        A few weeks ago my helper and I donned Tyvex suits, rubber
        gloves,</div>
      <div class="">goggles, and respirators to Demo a box that was in a
        dilapidated and soon to be be razed structure. The general
        contractor and client stood by laughing and commented that it
        looked like a scene from Breaking Bad!</div>
      <div class=""><br class="">
      </div>
      <div class="">
        <div class=""><br class="">
          <div>
            <blockquote type="cite" class="">
              <div class="">On Jan 28, 2016, at 9:18 PM, Ray Walters
                <<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                  href="mailto:ray@solarray.com" class="">ray@solarray.com</a>>
                wrote:</div>
              <br class="Apple-interchange-newline">
              <div class=""><span style="font-family: Helvetica;
                  font-size: 18px; font-style: normal; font-variant:
                  normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal;
                  line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start;
                  text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
                  normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px;
                  -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color:
                  rgb(255, 255, 255); float: none; display: inline
                  !important;" class="">Thanks for all the replies so
                  far.  I've tried foundation waterproofing membrane for
                  a couple of years, but found it will deteriorate in
                  high acid concentrations.  IT gets all gooey and
                  begins to dissolve.  It had peel N stick adhesive, and
                  seemed like a good idea, until later.  (it was HDPE?)<span
                    class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span><br
                  style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 18px;
                  font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight:
                  normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal;
                  orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px;
                  text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows:
                  auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
                  0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" class="">
                <span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 18px;
                  font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight:
                  normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal;
                  orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px;
                  text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows:
                  auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
                  0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); float:
                  none; display: inline !important;" class="">I've seen
                  construction 10 mil plastic sheeting hold a gal of
                  acid for many months, so I know that at least works
                  for acid.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica;
                  font-size: 18px; font-style: normal; font-variant:
                  normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal;
                  line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start;
                  text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
                  normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px;
                  -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color:
                  rgb(255, 255, 255);" class="">
                <br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 18px;
                  font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight:
                  normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal;
                  orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px;
                  text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows:
                  auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
                  0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" class="">
                <span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 18px;
                  font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight:
                  normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal;
                  orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px;
                  text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows:
                  auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
                  0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); float:
                  none; display: inline !important;" class="">The pond
                  liner looks good as well as Roy's wall plastic, but
                  the 1/8" polypropylene would seem to be possibly more
                  durable for about the same $$.  Plastic welding looks
                  relatively easy with a heat gun and special tip on a
                  soldering iron, too.  I'll report back on what we
                  actually do.</span><br style="font-family: Helvetica;
                  font-size: 18px; font-style: normal; font-variant:
                  normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal;
                  line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start;
                  text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
                  normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px;
                  -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color:
                  rgb(255, 255, 255);" class="">
                <br style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 18px;
                  font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight:
                  normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal;
                  orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px;
                  text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows:
                  auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
                  0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" class="">
                <span style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 18px;
                  font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight:
                  normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal;
                  orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px;
                  text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows:
                  auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
                  0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255); float:
                  none; display: inline !important;" class="">As always
                  thanks for the input, and I welcome all further
                  comments.  I feel battery enclosures are a somewhat
                  neglected part of off grid design.<span
                    class="Apple-converted-space"> </span></span><br
                  style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 18px;
                  font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight:
                  normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal;
                  orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px;
                  text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows:
                  auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
                  0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" class="">
                <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72" style="font-size: 18px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer, 
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760</pre>
                <div class="moz-cite-prefix" style="font-family:
                  Helvetica; font-size: 18px; font-style: normal;
                  font-variant: normal; font-weight: normal;
                  letter-spacing: normal; line-height: normal; orphans:
                  auto; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px;
                  text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows:
                  auto; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
                  0px; background-color: rgb(255, 255, 255);">On
                  1/28/2016 7:06 PM, frenergy wrote:<br class="">
                </div>
                <blockquote cite="mid:56AAC93C.7030003@psln.com"
                  type="cite" style="font-family: Helvetica; font-size:
                  18px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal;
                  font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal;
                  line-height: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start;
                  text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
                  normal; widows: auto; word-spacing: 0px;
                  -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color:
                  rgb(255, 255, 255);" class="">
                  <div class="moz-cite-prefix">Add to the list...I've
                    had good luck with Grace roofing underlayment: tough
                    and to a degree, self-healing, sticks to itself (and
                    anything it comes in contact with) very well making
                    seams secure, easy to find at building supply store,
                    sticks aggressively to battery box sides without
                    mechanical fasteners, experience has shown it
                    resists acid.  As with other solutions, something to
                    uniformly distribute the weight and irregular
                    bottoms of batteries should be employed.<br class="">
                    <br class="">
                    Bill<br class="">
                    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">Feather River Solar Electric            
Bill Battagin, Owner
4291 Nelson St.
Taylorsville, CA 95983
530.284.7849
<a moz-do-not-send="true" class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.frenergy.net/" style="color: blue;">www.frenergy.net</a></pre>
                    <br class="">
                    <br class="">
                    On 1/28/2016 5:35 PM, Allan Sindelar wrote:<br
                      class="">
                  </div>
                  <blockquote
                    cite="mid:56AAC1DD.9010601@sindelarsolar.com"
                    type="cite" class="">Ray,<br class="">
                    Just a couple of weeks ago we installed a 24V HUP
                    set in an existing installation. We had an existing
                    plywood battery box made of Baltic Birch (the 9-ply
                    12mm thick plywood typically used for cabinet drawer
                    carcases) with a liner made of 40(?)-mil pond liner
                    material. We removed the six cells from the steel
                    case, set the case in place in the plywood box and
                    lowered the cells into it. However, the box had a
                    non-removable 5" wide strip across the top rear, and
                    we needed to slide the entire 1100 pound case back
                    about 8" in order to fit both steel cases.<br
                      class="">
                    <br class="">
                    Before setting the steel case in the box I sprayed
                    the floor of the pond liner with a layer of the new
                    spray pulling lube from Klein Tools, then set the
                    steel case in place and lowered the cells. Using a
                    Porta-Power and some blocking, we slid the case into
                    place with little effort.<span
                      class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br class="">
                    <br class="">
                    You might find that vinyl pond liner works well in a
                    plywood box. We found it at a Home Depot.<br
                      class="">
                    Allan<br class="">
                    <br class="">
                    <div class="moz-signature">
                      <div class="WordSection1" style="page:
                        WordSection1;">
                        <div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size:
                          12pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"
                          class=""><b class="">Allan Sindelar</b><br
                            class="">
                          <span style="font-size: 10pt;" class=""><a
                              moz-do-not-send="true"
                              class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
                              href="mailto:allan@sindelarsolar.com"
                              style="color: blue;"><a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:allan@sindelarsolar.com">allan@sindelarsolar.com</a></a></span><br
                            class="">
                          <span style="font-size: 10pt;" class="">NABCEP
                            Certified PV Installation Professional<br
                              class="">
                            NABCEP Certified Technical Sales
                            Professional<br class="">
                            New Mexico EE98J Journeyman Electrician<br
                              class="">
                            Founder (Retired),<span
                              class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><span
                              class="">Positive Energy, Inc.</span><br
                              class="">
                            <b class="">505 780-2738 cell</b><br
                              class="">
                            <br class="">
                            <b class=""><o:p class=""></o:p></b></span></div>
                        <div style="margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size:
                          12pt; font-family: 'Times New Roman', serif;"
                          class=""><o:p class=""> </o:p></div>
                      </div>
                    </div>
                    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/28/2016 3:25 PM,
                      Ray Walters wrote:<br class="">
                    </div>
                    <blockquote cite="mid:56AA9568.2040506@solarray.com"
                      type="cite" class="">Hi All;<span
                        class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br
                        class="">
                      <br class="">
                      We're looking to improve our battery box
                      construction, and are considering using 1/8" think
                      polypropylene sheeting.  I've used small premade
                      boxes before, but this will be for a HUP install,
                      and we would want to build the box around the
                      batteries after.  Does anyone have experience/
                      comments on welding plastic?  The alternative
                      would be to just seal the seams with acid
                      resistant caulking. (silicone, Geocell, ?)<span
                        class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br
                        class="">
                      I've had good luck in the past just using 10 mil
                      plastic sheeting stapled up on the inside of a
                      plywood box, but we will be scooting 1000 lb
                      batteries around on it, so I don't think the
                      sheeting will hold up.<span
                        class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br
                        class="">
                      <br class="">
                      Thanks,<span class="Apple-converted-space"> </span><br
                        class="">
                      <br class="">
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Check out or update participant bios:
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://www.members.re-wrenches.org">www.members.re-wrenches.org</a>

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