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My opinion is that if the L foot has enough surface area it
constitutes a flashing, and that large flashings can actually cause
more damage to the roof than they prevent.<br>
I also agree that an attachement doesn't constitute a penetration.
I just finished an install on a metal roof with hundreds of screw
holes. We added a few more screw holes, and ours have 20 times the
sealant surface area. We did run a 1" conduit through the roof, and
since it was an actual penetration, we used a very expensive
flexible boot flashing.<br>
Personally, I think we need about a 3"x3" or 4" x 4" L foot with a
double stick butyl tape on the bottom, and all will be well.<br>
I realize that the OP was referring to asphalt, but I will flash
other roof types that don't do well with L feet ( like shake).<br>
<pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar Design Engineer
303 505-8760</pre>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 8/6/2015 12:59 PM, Conrad Geyser
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAP4_H9Usav5Z2TvjFzDUvvpz3RMPHMR4HLfE+ym_6yPAb+Udww@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">Hi fellow Wrenches,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Flashing - </div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>We have ~30 years experience with ~700 systems dating back
to 1980 here in the Northeast primarily on asphalt shingles.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Standard attachment method on these historic systems and
currently for us is a lagged foot bedded in silicone. We've
seen no leaks including the historic systems as long as there
was solid attachment to framing and the foot size was big
enough to not crush the roofing.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Our current technique is to use a single lag through the
center of a 1.5" x 5" foot. Bed the foot 100% and run the lag
in coated as well. Fillet all "gush out" (you can look these
terms up : >). Don't use GE silicone below 45F - it will
never cure.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>For aspahlt here in the NE, I feel as though the flashing
products are OK but actually create more roof liability as
they require the releasing of shingles at a minimum.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Conrad Geyser</div>
<div>Cotuit Solar LLC</div>
<div>NAPCEP PV and Thermal</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
<div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Aug 6, 2015 at 1:16 PM,
Matt Partymiller <span dir="ltr"><<a
moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:matt@solar-energy-solutions.com"
target="_blank">matt@solar-energy-solutions.com</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Daniel,<br>
<br>
My answer is to flash until others prove me wrong.<br>
<br>
I am in the same position you are, speaking to the same
manufacturers you<br>
are, and probably dealing with the same low competitor
pricing you are.<br>
These products sure sound tempting.<br>
<br>
Over the past decade I have probably removed a dozen
80's era hot air or<br>
hot water systems that were directly attached to roofs
(installed by<br>
others). In every instance the roof was a complete mess
and required deck<br>
replacement. I now tell homeowners just to contact a
roofer and have them<br>
dispose of the collectors in the process of re-roofing -
we will come out<br>
after the new roof is in place.<br>
<br>
I think you summed up the sealant problem quite well. I
sell my systems<br>
as a 25 year product. I am not satisfied that butyl is
a 25 year answer.<br>
Until someone convinces me otherwise, I will relate as
much to my<br>
customers and proceed with proper flashings.<br>
<br>
Good poll.<br>
<br>
Matt<br>
<br>
<br>
Matthew Partymiller<br>
Solar Energy Solutions LLC<br>
<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="tel:%28877%29%20312-7456" value="+18773127456">(877)
312-7456</a><br>
<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:matt@solar-energy-solutions.com">matt@solar-energy-solutions.com</a><br>
<br>
<br>
On Thu, August 6, 2015 12:47 pm, Daniel Young wrote:<br>
> Writing the subject above, it seems like I've heard
this question on the<br>
> wrench list before, but I could not find it in my
old email archives. Feel<br>
> free to pint me back to the old discussion if it's
there.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> I've been using a flashing based roof attachment
for 8+yrs now (quick<br>
> mount or similar). Now we are looking at Rail-less
systems (quick rack is<br>
> a good example). There is also a non-flashed
rail-less racking from<br>
> roof-tech <a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="http://roof-tech.us/" rel="noreferrer"
target="_blank">http://roof-tech.us/</a> . I've always
been of the opinion that<br>
> simply crushing some sealant/gasket onto an asphalt
shingle work fine at<br>
> first (the test data from roof-tech is impressive),
but would be an issue<br>
> 10+yrs down the<br>
> road (thermal expansion movement, freeze/thaw,
etc). I can make a good<br>
> waterproof seal at first by just slathering some
butyl/silicone to an<br>
> L-foot<br>
> and cranking it down on the shingles, but that
practice really disappeared<br>
> 8+yrs ago.<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Maybe consider this a Poll: (to flash, or not to
flash)<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> With Regards,<br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
><br>
> Daniel Young,<br>
><br>
><br>
> NABCEP Certified PV Installation ProfessionalTM:
Cert #031508-90<br>
><br>
><br>
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