<div dir="ltr">Yes, the "EZ-Fire" controller. <div>I agree with Roy; there's nothing magic about the turbine alternator itself, and it's easy to build your own stop switch and rectifier/heat sink assembly. And maybe then run it thru a Midnite Classic for MPPT. I've never done it with a 200, but works fine on 100s.</div></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br clear="all"><div><div class="gmail_signature"><div dir="ltr">Dan Fink<div>Buckville Energy</div><div>IREC Certified Instructor™ for: </div><div>~ PV Installation Professional</div><div>~ Small Wind Installer</div><div>NABCEP / IREC / ISPQ Accredited Continuing Education Providers™<br>970.672.4342<br><br> </div></div></div></div>
<br><div class="gmail_quote">On Fri, Feb 6, 2015 at 12:33 PM, Windsine Inc. <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:windsine@gmail.com" target="_blank">windsine@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><p dir="ltr">If the stator is now configured for 48v nominal, why not run it through a conventional packaged 3 phase rectifier directly stalled to the 48v battery bank through a fuse of course (that's sized to never blow under turbine current). You can also add a shorting stop switch prior to the rectifier - not after it. That's if you can't get your controller repaired. </p>
<p dir="ltr">You may lose a little operating efficiency but it works fine. <br>
You could also run it through an mppt controller to get your efficiency back but you will also have to add the rectifier and stop switch.</p>
<p dir="ltr">RoyR</p>
<div class="gmail_quote"><div><div class="h5">On Feb 6, 2015 7:55 AM, "Mac Lewis" <<a href="mailto:maclewis1@gmail.com" target="_blank">maclewis1@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br type="attribution"></div></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div class="h5"><div dir="ltr">Hello wrenches,<div><br></div><div>Yesterday, we converted a Whisper 200 over from 24V to 48V operation. We lowered the turbine and rewired it. We set the Dip switches in the controller (1 & 2 to off) and rewired the dump load as specified in the manual. For some reason, when we put the 55V battery voltage to the controller, it smoked it. We triple checked all of our connections and settings. Everything looks like the manual specifies.</div><div><br></div><div>Luckily for us, we happen to have a spare Whisper controller that I can give this guy. If it was a fluke and the controller just had a bad component, fine, no problem. However, I'd like to know if I'm missing something about the 48VDC conversion before we smoke another one. Are there known issues, operating this controller at 48V?</div><div><br></div><div>Any insights are appreciated. Thanks, in advance.</div><div><br></div><div><br clear="all"><div><br></div>-- <br><div><div><br></div><div><font color="#305A78" face="'times new roman', serif"><br></font></div><div><br></div>Mac Lewis<br><br><span style="font-family:'Times New Roman';font-size:medium;color:rgb(255,153,0)"><b><font face="Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif" size="3"><p align="left"><font color="#000000" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif"><span style="font-size:small"><span style="font-family:arial;font-weight:normal;color:rgb(48,90,120)"><font face="'times new roman', serif">"Yo solo sé que no sé nada." </font><span style="font-weight:700;color:rgb(104,104,104)"><font face="'times new roman', serif">-Sócrates</font></span></span></span></font></p></font></b></span></div>
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